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Re: Beating Solved



Tesla List wrote:
> 
> > Subject: Beating Solved
> 
> >From hullr-at-whitlock-dot-comThu Aug 29 22:33:00 1996
> Date: Thu, 29 Aug 1996 11:02:39 -0700
> From: Richard Hull <hullr-at-whitlock-dot-com>
> To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
> Subject: Re: Beating Solved
> 
> Tesla List wrote:
> >
> > >From tesla-at-america-dot-comTue Aug 27 22:57:57 1996
> > Date: Tue, 27 Aug 96 20:00 EDT
> > From: Bob Schumann <tesla-at-america-dot-com>
> > To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
> > Subject: Beating Solved
> >
> 
> Big Snip
> 
> > Here is what I believe may have been the problem:
> >
> > The cap I was using reads .01 at 30KVDC. It's casing
> > is hard white ceramic. It is 6.5 inches long, 1 inch in
> > diameter and has studs less than .125 inch diameter.
> > My theory is that since it got so hot so quick always
> > that the dielectric is not at all suited for TC application
> > and that its role in life was a a filter type capacitor
> > and that it hated life while it was in my system. Because....
> >
> > (Here is the great news....................)
> >
> > My CP caps came in!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> >
> > I hooked the .01 CP cap up to my system and it was
> > the difference between tiddly winks and discus throwing!!
> > I have achieved my longest sparks to date 14" from this
> > system. Still with all 6 gaps employed, all the sputtering
> > went away. This cap has balls. I even added more torroid
> > to it and beside the long spark, I have leakge from the lower
> > torroid. All the difference in the world. I know with your
> > great achievements that 14" sparks is no feat, but for me
> > I had a great moment of achievment!!!
> >
> > Thanks all again for comments,
> >
> > Bob Schumann
> 
> Bob,
> 
> Wow!  You have been using a .01ufd Mylar!!!!!
> 
> That will always be a problem!
> 
> The following is for all new coilers:
> 
> Let's say this one last time!
> 
> All- Repeat all- wonderful caps which are in the ideal Tesla coiler range
> (.001-.1ufd -at- 5-30KVDC), that you obtain (most often at hamfests and
> surplus stores) which are in GLASS or WHITE CERAMIC and have metal end
> caps with solder seals and threaded studs, having the geometry of a long
> cylinder with dimensions of no more than 1.5" diameter and a few inches
> long, ARE DEFINITELY MYLARS!  They are DC filters only!  The glass caps
> are most often RED other colors I have seen are GREEN, BLUE, YELLOW.
> These must not be used in Tesla service without a blast shield!  The fact
> that they get hot is a sure indicator that they are mylar.
> 
> You have seen what a difference the big ugly monster from CP can do with
> the proper dielectric.  All should learn from this.  A small
> glass/ceramic cap just can't do what the big poly caps can do.
> 
> Richard Hull, TCBOR


Richard:

Just quick point of contention here on mylar caps -


Granted, mylar isn't the *greatest* dielectric in the world, but it's
a damn sight better than say, oil-paper power-factor correction caps.
I built a small table-top coil many years ago (In fact, it's pictured
on my homepage) which used (2) 0.005uF, 45KVdc 'wrap&fill' (built by
Custom Capacitors, found in surplus) mylars in parallel, driven by a
9KV neon. Coil produced spectacular 14" discharges from the 4"
secondary(!) and the caps barely got warm, even after several minutes
of 'on' time.

Mylars *can* work. What I *DO* agree on is the *case style*. You are
indeed correct about the oil-filled, cylindrical caps. I too had one
go ballistic on me.


- Brent