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RE: Primaries and Copper Tubing



Subject:  RE: Primaries and Copper Tubing
  Date:   Tue, 22 Apr 97 04:20:24 UT
  From:   "William Noble" <William_B_Noble-at-msn-dot-com>
    To:   "Tesla List" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>


if I may say so, to your advice to scrap out work hardened copper
tubing, 
"nonsense".  yes copper work hardens, and purer copper does it more, but
if 
you heat it with a torch it gets nice and soft again - heat up to the 
incadescent stage - at least a dull red glow.  I would use an
oxyacetolene 
torch, but propane or natual gas will get it hot enough also. You can 
immediately quench the copper, or not, it does't matter (it's not like
iron 
where quenching affects the metallic lattice and thus hardness).  The
same 
technique applies to gold or silver (if any of you are making solid gold 
primaries, you will notice the lowest possible resistance, and the
maximum 
resale value)

-----Original Message-----
From:   Tesla List 
Sent:   Friday, April 18, 1997 8:25 AM
To:     tesla-at-poodle.pupman-dot-com
Subject:        Re: Primaries and Copper Tubing

Subject:  Re: Primaries and Copper Tubing
  Date:   Fri, 18 Apr 1997 07:14:03 -0700
  From:   DR.RESONANCE" <DR.RESONANCE-at-next-wave-dot-net> 
    To:   "Tesla List" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>

[Bill]  SNIP

Once you bend or straighten the tubing first it "work-hardens" and
becomes
completely unable to make smooth bends.  If you have done this you will
have to scrap it out and start with a new roll.  Also, best to use
K-soft
copper.  There is another type used for plumbing that work hardens much
faster and is much harder to work with.  Guess what --- the electrons
won't
know the difference!!!

DR.RESONANCE-at-next-wave-dot-net