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Re: Rotaries and Neons (fwd)
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 7 Aug 1998 09:18:11 EDT
From: FutureT-at-aol-dot-com
To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
Subject: Re: Rotaries and Neons (fwd)
In a message dated 98-08-07 04:59:01 EDT, you write:
<<
> Can import Reliance S-2000 in 1/8-2 HP for $1100, but this is supposed to
> be a hobby, not the undoing of my financial security ;-)
Mark,
You can always modify a normal induction motor by grinding flats
on the armature to make it synchronous, if you can't find a true sync
motor. You lose some power this way, but I've had good results with
1/10HP and also 1/4HP motors. Some others have used 1/25HP
motors. 1500rpm motors need 4 flats, 3000rpm motors need 2
flats, (50Hz mains).
> Wandering through an electronic junk shop & found ....
> MDS Ashland sync motor
> 240V / 50 Hz / 0.25Amp / Cont. Duty Cycle
> 1000 rpm (so I figure 6 pole)
> 1/100 HP ????
Some sync motors don't always lock in the same position. You can
test this by taping a white cardboard disc to the shaft. Draw a heavy
black line acrosse the disc. Run the motor under fluorescent lighting
and look for the locked pattern on the disc. You'll see the change as
you slow down the motor with a variac. It may take some looking
before you can tell when it's locked visually, if you're not used to seeing
this effect. You want a sync motor that always locks in the same
position or phase.
I usually select a motor that is cylindrical, and I mount it in a cradle
so it can be rotated to adjust the phase so it fires at the AC peaks.
You can use a scope for this, but I just turn the motor to the position
that gives the best spark output at full power. Some folks keep the
motor stationary and rotate the electrode assembly to adjust the
phase. The really simple, (but sort of crude) way to adjust the
phase is to simply rotate the rotor on the shaft until you get the
best spark...a trial and error method... HO!
Have fun,
John Freau
> Cheers,
> Mark
>>