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RE: tubes and windings



Original poster: "James by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <mustang3-at-home-dot-com>

Hi Fox,
   Make a jig out of scrap wood. Two uprights and a bottom piece. Use
threaded rod to hold secondary. Put a handle on it and crank away. I wound a
8 in. dia. X 34 in. with #20 wire in about 1 hour.
										Later,
										  James

-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla-at-pupman-dot-com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 13, 2000 12:23 PM
To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
Subject: tubes and windings


Original poster: "Matt Skidmore by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>"
<fox-at-gwydion.woozle-dot-org>

> that it is rated for 1,500 VDC, not 15,000 VDC! Unfortunately, as

yes, i really need to apologize for that. i feel i got some people excited
over my mis-reading. im probably going to use bottle caps for my good
tesla coil and then late on switch to a manufactored cap or MMC. i was
just looking around for a nice deal in the meantime and got over excited.

ihad a friend over to take a look at my POS coil made of junk. she was
rather impressed and suggested i use a vacuum tube for the spark gap. she
is rather crazy with tubes and has a HUGE collection of them and various
radioactive materials. right now, i know nothing of how tubes work, or how
well they work on coils if you could get a nice 120 BPS. is it possible to
use an air or rotary gap now and then switch to a tube at later time? or
does the coil have to be redesigned to use a tube and its not worth the
trouble?

another question, how would one go about winding a seoncardy fairly
easily? i intend to do it by hand, but if anyone has suggestions im open
to them. what do you do if you need to stop in the middle of winding? put
a peice or tape or putty to hold the last few windings in place or
something?

thanks!

-fox