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Re: Triggered Tap Testing



Original poster: "Alex Madsen by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <alexmadsen-at-yahoo-dot-com>

I am in the process of constructing a trigger gap and I have a few
questions.
1. What current do most trigger gaps draw assuming a 150 watt load
resistor?
2. Where can I get some doorknob cap(s) cheep and are they necessary for
good performance?
3.  How important is a line filter and where can I get one cheep. I do keep
some electronics plugged in while I am running the coil.
Alex Madsen
# 1147
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2001 5:41 PM
Subject: Triggered Tap Testing


> Original poster: "Terry Fritz" <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>
>
> Hi All,
>
> I did some testing with Marc's triggered gap today using this setup:
>
> http://hot-streamer-dot-com/temp/MarcGap/MarcGap1.jpg
>
> Marc's gap uses two tungsten carbide milling tools for the electrodes and
a
> 1/8 inch tungsten rod for a trigger electrode:
>
> http://hot-streamer-dot-com/temp/MarcGap/MarcGap2.jpg
>
> When the gap is running, the arc goes from one electrode, to the trigger
> electrode, and then on to the other main electrode as can be seen with a
> welder's glass:
>
> http://hot-streamer-dot-com/temp/MarcGap/MarcGap3.jpg
>
> The gap does track perfectly with the trigger signal and appears to have
> fairly low loss:
>
> http://hot-streamer-dot-com/temp/MarcGap/scope.gif
>
> The gap is very bright and one should visit the welding store for some
> welder's glass or goggles (they are cheap, a few dollars).
>
> The gap does get pretty hot but the tungsten does not care much.  A small
> fan would really help.
>
> I think the loss would be far less if the trigger electrode just distorted
> the fields so the arc went between just the main electrodes.  Working on
> this ;-)
>
> Cheers,
>
> Terry
>


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