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Re: Ryan's Coil = Salvaged :-)



Original poster: "by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <Esondrmn-at-aol-dot-com>

In a message dated 1/9/01 6:14:34 PM Pacific Standard Time, tesla-at-pupman-dot-com 
writes:

<<  Okay, it looks like I live on to coil another day.  I'm not sure what all
 was said about the thicker PVC and absorbing more RF, but I was able to
 completely sand away the carbon track and reveal fresh PVC underneath.  I
 then applied a new coat of polyurethane to the inside of the form. It's
 drying as we speak...
 
    So now I salvaged the coil, but I desire to find out what is truly wrong
 with the system and make this coil work.  Starting with the ballast.  I
 have no powerstat/variac.  I had one for the 120v power for the neon sign
 transformers, but I have no idea how I'm going to get a 240v 10kva
 powerstat for the pig. ($$$) I have been using microwave oven transformers
 as ballasting, some fuses, and a master switch.  The extension cord used to
 transport the power is that oilfield stuff made with 3 6-gauge conductors
 coated with HEAVY insulation.  We lucked out by having a relative that
 works in the oilfield.  
 
 Just don't tell me to tap my primary in any further. :-)
 
 -- Ryan Ries
  >>
Ryan,

I would suggest to go back to the neon sign transformers and the variac.  At 
low power, run the coil and adjust for best tuning.  You should be getting at 
least a couple of feet of spark with only a 12 kv 60 ma transformer.  Add as 
many neon sign transformers in parallel as the variac will support.  Check 
that the sparks are increasing as the input power is increased.  This would 
be a good time to also adjust the coupling between primary and secondary.  
You probably want the coupling somewhat looser at 10 kva than you find best 
at lower power.  Once you are able to generate several feet of spark with the 
neon sign transformers, then go back to the larger power supply.  I would 
encourage you to ultimately get a variac for the 10 kva system.  Without a 
variac, I would suggest you make some kind of switch system where you can 
start out with several ohms of series resistance and gradually decrease it to 
zero when everything looks good performance wise.  I made such a system with 
7 oven elements with switches to connect them in parallel.  With all switches 
open, one element is in series with the pole transfomer primary - I think 
this was about 20 ohms.  With all switches closed, I think the resistance is 
about 1 ohm.

Good luck, Ed Sonderman