Re: First light for an old coiler

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "ROBERT L BOZARTH JR. by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <jbdetails-at-prodigy-dot-net>


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Sent: Friday, November 16, 2001 1:35 PM
Subject: Re: First light for an old coiler


> Original poster: "R Heidlebaugh by way of Terry Fritz
<twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <rheidlebaugh-at-zialink-dot-com>
>
> on 11/14/01 12:07 PM, Tesla list at tesla-at-pupman-dot-com wrote:
>
> > Original poster: "Bob Bozarth by way of Terry Fritz
<twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>"
> > <JBDetails-at-prodigy-dot-net>
> >
> >> I had a serious drip problem. The net result was a very bumpy coating
> > which
> >> fortunately has no impact on performance. In hindsight I think a
> > rotisserie
> >> motor (or similar slow motor) would permit a dripless even coating.
> >>
> >> Dave
> >
> >
> >
> > I used a windshield wiper motor from my truck. I happened to have a
> > couple extra ones, so I hooked up the battery charger to it after
replacing
> > the arm on the shaft with a pulley. The pulley ran a belt to a pulley on
the
> > shaft that the form was mounted on. The pulley on the motor was about 4"
> > dia, and the form shaft pulley was 1" dia. I got a little more speed
that
> > way.
> > Just an idea, hope it helps...
> >
> > Bob Bozarth
> >
> >
> >
> I read on the list about coating and standing the coil  vertical to
harden.
> I tried it and i recomend it to all. No turning, on trouble. As it hardens
I
> watch for drips. Using fiber-glass-resin in about 2 hours I have over 1/8
in
> of coating and no  drips. It couldn't be easier.
>    Robert  H
>



    That sounds like a good idea too, except I recomend a fixture of some
sort to mimmick a lath. Since the secondary coil is already on a device
which spins it, I figured it would be a good idea to leave it there after
the wire is wound. I believe the next step would be to put some sort of
coating on it.
     The motor I used was held by a vice that was "C" clamped to the table.
The form spindle was mounted very simply to a piece of lumber, which was
also clamped to the table. Clamping the two down to the table allowed me to
provide appropriate tension to the drive belt. I kept it fairly loose to
allow slippage so I won't break the wire during winding.
    The polyurethane I used was some stuff I had for years, so it was a
little thicker than if I had just bought a new can. It made a big difference
in how thick I could put it on at once.

    That's all I got...
        Bob Bozarth
            Experimenter