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Re: entire secondary
Original poster: "by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <FutureT-at-aol-dot-com>
In a message dated 11/24/01 11:23:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> I've got a few questions about my unbuilt secondary.
> 1) My Idea was based on transportability (is that a word?) I want to be
The methods you mention will work. I attach a post to the
bottom of my secondary, and this post fits into a socket in the
coil base, such that the post slides in the socket, so the secondary
can be raised or lowered as the post is slid deeper or less deep
into the socket. A thumbscrew in the socket is tightened to hold
the post at a certain height to set the coupling. For my TT-42 coil,
I did this a different way; I put a brass screw at the tip of the post,
and a brass screw at the bottom of the socket. When the post
is dropped into the socket, the brass screws touch and make
the electrical contact by gravity. The secondary wire is attached
to the brass screw at the bottom of the post. The height is not
adjustable on the TT-42 coil.
> 2) Is sealing the PVC pipe with PU before winding necessary? I have heard
> you should put some PU on, and while it is wet, wind the coil, so that it
> acts like a glue... Comments?
This can make a horrible mess, unless the PU is just a little tacky.
I don't do anything to the PVC pipe before winding, except for
> 3) I am using a 12/60, what size form would be best, 4.5" or 6"? The mag
> wire I
> have is #20, so I am leaning towards 6" so I can get the most turns without
> exceeding the H/D ratio. (4:1 ???)
Yes, a 6" form is best because it will help to increase the coil's
inductance. If you have the room, I would make the secondary
about 33" tall or so to get more turns and inductance. An H/D
ratio of 5 or 6 is just as good as a 4:1 ratio.
Your coil may give 55" sparks if all is optimal.
> Thank you,
> Jonathon Reinhart