Re: Spark Gaps (Formerly: Heatsinks?)

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "R Heidlebaugh by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <rheidlebaugh-at-zialink-dot-com>

on 11/27/01 7:59 AM, Tesla list at tesla-at-pupman-dot-com wrote:

> Original poster: "Jim Lux by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>"
> <jimlux-at-earthlink-dot-net>
> 
> Three pieces of copper pipe arranged with their axes in parallel. You can
> use end caps or couplings. Easy to adjust (put them in a triangle, and only
> one piece needs to be moved to set the two gaps), easy to change to a
> triggered gap, easy to make a blown gap (add a muffin fan), lots of surface
> area for cooling, and it's cheap.
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 7:56 PM
> Subject: Spark Gaps (Formerly: Heatsinks?)
> 
> 
>> Original poster: "Erik Kettenburg by way of Terry Fritz
> <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <missyrat-at-pacbell-dot-net>
>> 
>> What are some good SIMPLE spark gaps in use for a coil running at 9-15kv
>> 30ma?
>> Preferebly A Static Gap
>> Thanx
>> -Erik
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: Tesla list <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
>> To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
>> Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 11:27 AM
>> Subject: RE: Heatsinks?
>> 
>> 
>>> Original poster: "Ted Rosenberg by way of Terry Fritz
>> <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <Ted.Rosenberg-at-radioshack-dot-com>
>>> 
>>> Erik:
>>> Although it's difficult to see exactly how each bolt is insulated from
> the
>>> next, I would say that if the coil being used by this static gap is less
>>> than 1000W, you might not need any extra cooling. When the bolts are
> large
>>> and of copper/brass, they tend to act as their own heat sink.
>>> 
>>> If each bolt is insulated from the next and if there is room, adding a
>> heat
>>> sink of suitable size can't hurt and might help. You never know for sure
>>> until you try without then with.
>>> 
>>> My original static gap used 9 copper tubes overly large (1.75" diam by
> 2.5
>>> long) for that reason. the mass of copper was it's own heat sink.
>>> With your present arrangment, how do you adjust the lateral movement of
>> each
>>> bolt to assure proper and equal spacing? And what would you do if you
> wish
>>> to change that spacing?
>>> 
>>> And finally, have you considered a triggered gap?
>>> 
>>> Safety First
>>> 
>>> Ted
>>> 
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Tesla list [mailto:tesla-at-pupman-dot-com]
>>> Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 9:17 AM
>>> To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
>>> Subject: Heatsinks?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Original poster: "Erik Kettenburg by way of Terry Fritz
>>> <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <missyrat-at-pacbell-dot-net>
>>> 
>>> Hi,
>>> I was trying to come up with a way to cool a staionary spark gap like
> this
>>> one
>>> 
>> 
> <http://www.members.tripod-dot-com/bryishere/58926d30.jpg>http://www.members.tr
>>> ipod-dot-com/bryishere/58926d30.jpg
>>> and I was wondering if mounting heat sinks on the ends of the bolts on
>>> either
>>> side would work
>>> any thoughts?
>>> any other simple ideas
>>> note: i'm trying to avoid using anything that needs power
>>> -Erik
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
I use a 5 in piece of 3 in pvc pipe with 9- 1/8 in holes drilled around the
center circumference every 1 in. I then cut 9- 3 in pc of 1/2 in copper pipe
and drill a 1/8 in hole through the center of each piece. I mount each pipe
INSIDE the PVC pipe with 1 in 6-23 bolts using a hack-saw-blade as a spacer.
The small bolts in the large hole allows adjustment. I then connect wires
with a solder lug to the OUTSIDE of the disired bolt to select my total gap
spacing. I mount the PVC 1/2 in above the surface on spacers.
   Robert   H