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Re: Making Flat secondaries - disaster #1...
Original poster: "Luc by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <ludev-at-videotron.ca>
I could figure that spiral coil are nor easy to coil. If I want
to build one I probably try to sandwich the wire and the form
between 2 plate of 1/4" or more of steel or cast iron with the
surface treat for no stick. Each turn of wire want to slip on the
other one creating a pressure between the 2 plate this force is
add at each turn. May be the wire could be pass though a glue and
wind a little turn at time leaving time to glue to set. We could
calculated easily the force exerted between the 2 plate with
vector, but I'm sure it's a great one and as you go wider your
plate who are retain by the middle are less and less resistant.
Tesla list wrote:
> Original poster: "Marry Krutsch by way of Terry Fritz
> Hi Terry.
> Sorry to hear about your disaster <:-0. You might try to get thick
> plexiglass (1/4" or larger), leave the protective coating on, and use
> your "failed" method. Also, as you wind the coil, drip varnish or epoxy
> onto the incoming wire (epoxy is probably best, since varnish could have
> a hard time drying in the confined space.). Plus, drilling plexi is
> touchy, but drilling glass (w/o good equipment) is "a bit" harder. I
> think someone proposed this a little while ago.
> Wait for the epoxy or whatever you use to cure/dry, then pull the
> sheets of plexiglass apart. The film may or may not come off the coil,
> but it only adds insulation if it won't.
> With regard to putting holes in plexiglass, I usually leave the drill
> in the box, and use a hot object to melt holes in it instead. What bur
> is left easily comes off when "coaxed" with a sharp object, and the
> fumes aren't TOO bad :-). It's better than sending shrapnel throughout
> your garage and destroying the piece in the process.
> Just a thought.
> Hoping disaster #2 isn't on the way....
> Winston K.
> Tesla list wrote:
> > Original poster: "Terry Fritz" <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>
> > Hi All,
> > I worked on my new flat secondary tonight and I wanted to warn you 'not' to
> > try this method ;-P
> > I took a sheet of 18 x 18 inch plate glass 1/4 inch thick and I glued a 1/4
> > inch brass bolt to the center with silicone. I got a big "Lazy Susan" turn
> > table bearing to rotate the glass on.
> > The plan was to use double sided tape on the glass to hold the #24 wire
> > windings as I turned them to place:
> > http://hot-streamer-dot-com/temp/flat0.jpg
> > Once done, I could spray coat it to make it stronger. An alternative was
> > to use spray adhesive in place of the tape.
> > This is how it turned out:
> > http://hot-streamer-dot-com/temp/flat1.jpg
> > I think the inductance is sort of low :o))
> > The basic materials are all sound but the #24 wire could easily pull away
> > from the tape in large chunks. The tape was no match at all for the
> > stiffness of the wire.
> > "Next", I am thinking of using a second sheet of glass (I really worry
> > plastic will not be stiff enough) and spacing it at 21.5 mil to wind the
> > coil between the sheets. I will probably have to glass drill a hole in the
> > sheets for the terminal and bolt to hold the sheets together. Wow!! I am
> > really looking forward to drilling the glass =:O))) The winding will have
> > to be loose enough so as not to press against the sheets too much. A tiny
> > bit of pressure from each wind could add up to a ton (maybe literally) when
> > 500 winds are in place. One disadvantage of having the wire between sheets
> > is that I can't probe it for secondary voltage profiles. Maybe not a big
> > deal since Paul's programs are real good :-)) I sort of wonder what effect
> > the coil holding forms will have on the coil...
> > Cheers,
> > Terry