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Re: K and tube coils, loss gain factors...



Original poster: "Jim Mora by way of Terry Fritz <teslalist-at-qwest-dot-net>" <jmora-at-jetlink-dot-net>

  Thanks John,

Copy all that...
 >
 > I usually use a coupling of about 0.18 to 0.22.  Small changes don't seem
 > to make much difference.

  **<sipezze at work Terry>**
 >
 > I generally use polystyrene or plexiglas for my tube coil forms.  I place
 > the grid feedback coil onto a separate form that slides over the top (or
 > bottom)
 > portion of the primary form (above or below the primary winding), so I can
 > adjust both the main coupling and grid feedback independently.
 >
 > If you use copper tubing, it could form a stand-alone coil with lexan
supports
 > at 3 or 4 places around the circumference of the coil.>

hmm, sounds good. what about cheap 1" PE cutting board: strips which I have
in abudace and the fearfull primary to secondary arc?
 >
 >
...> That cap can handle the MOT doubler voltage, but it's getting near the
edge.
 > I blew out a nice 0.006uF, 8kV rated mica cap when I ran at 5.5kV or so.

  Hmm, will it handle a full wave 4200 in "orange mode"? ... air blown...

 > I'm sure you'll get a nice result.  The key with VTTC's is they often need
 > a *lot* of tweaking to get the best results.  Getting longest sparks is
not
 > the key.  Getting longest sparks without the tube getting too red is the
key.

Yes I have one of  the artistic and functional DM PCB's to vary the duty
cycle, knowing this from your earlier posted experieneces.

My ability at tweaking was once very good.. it fades a bit with age..like
othe things:-)

 > To get 24" sparks, you'll most likely need to remove the shunts from
 > the MOT.

  Hey that be the easy part, they are up front, waiting for kockout abuse.It
is an industrial MOT. Drew near 20 amps when in the oven.

  Thanks as alaways, John,

Say what about the massive plate xformer? Meltdown:))) ?

Jim
.