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Re: Ace Hardware grinder Sync conversion? Slot depth opinions, 240 or ^ bps benefit?



Original poster: "Gerry  Reynolds" <gerryreynolds@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Hi Jim,

I believe the #28 awg wire is the starter coil (cap fed). If the motor is a cap start type, there will be a relay somewhere in its circuit to turn it off after start. The #22 awg is the main coil, I believe. What I'm not too sure of: should you measure the space between the two main coils or the space within one of the main coils. Terry or John Freau can best answer that. If you have a way to take a picture of the stator, and sending it to Terry, I'm sure he can easily say what the right way to make the measurement is.

Happy grinding.

Gerry R.


Original poster: "Jim Mora" <jmora@xxxxxxxxxxx>

Gerry, et al
Thanks for all the informative posts.

1. There are two sets of coils opposing where they start by 90 degrees. The
inner coils, paper separated, appears to be #28 AWG and appears to be
connected to the cap. The outer set is closer to #22 or maybe #20. Each coil
is separated on the stator by ~ 3/16". I am assuming we are interested in
the distance of separation between the center on the larger coils, what I am
unclear about is the measurement taken (above)at the stator or how far out
into the windings at this center point is the magic number. Terry, I
apologize for not snipping for the sake of continuity of the thread.

2. What may be subject of a second thread is what benefit would 240 BPS @ 60
rpsec bring if the 90 degrees of separation on the rotor would seem to bring
us to the zero crossing point of the sine wave. That thought was the
beginning of my interest in a DC coil. Am I missing something fundamentally?
Can someone illuminate me how higher break rates can be of benefit in sync
operation?

Thanks again
Jim Mora

Original poster: "Gerry  Reynolds" <gerryreynolds@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>


Hi Jim,

Comments interspersed.


Original poster: "Jim Mora" <jmora@xxxxxxxxxxx>

""I dismantled the grinder a few minutes ago and it
has a 6.0 uf in the base which seems to go to a
separate(s) windings for Startup?. All in all I
think it is the right ticket. Just as Terry's
pictures show. I am thinking of putting 4 gaps on
the 12" disk for better balance. ""

I don't think a 4 electrode rotor is any easier to balance than a 2
electrode rotor.  If you have 4 electrodes on your rotor, you will
have 240 BPS given a two pole motor at 3600 rpm. To convert to 120
BPS just remove two opposing electrodes

""These would be
at 90 degrees each. I have not done any math on
that yet nor have I calculated the instantaneous
value of E in a long time:-). I'll just figure on
the timing based on the rotor speed and the
length of a 60 cycle sine wave time. It would be
nice to run 240 BPS. All the electrodes (12) are
30 degrees apart. I'll remove the 8 for now. I
have a slew of new CD caps and a well voltage and current controlled pig.

Ok so I think I need 2 slots cut 180 degrees
opposing for 3600 right? How deep should they be
machined to get max torque but suitable sync. The
armature is smallish 1 5/8" wide including the
aluminum ends and Mics to 2.041 - 2.042 in
diameter. Does it matter where the cuts are made
in the armature as long as they face each other?
Multiple opinions welcome. I think I will take
this to a machinist friend of mine.""

Two flats for a two pole motor, each at 180 degress to the
other.  The depth of the flat is determined by the stator coil.  Find
the width between bundles of wires in the stator and this will
determine the size of the flat. The flat needs to be of a depth so
the width of the flat spot on the rotor matches the spacing between
wire bundles (main wire bundle not the starter coil bundle).  Make
this measurement first and post the results before grinding the flat
in case I haven't described the stator coil correctly. Grinding the
flat is fairly easy and doesn't require a machinist.  You can use a
right angle grinder for the flats.  A mill may grab the laminants and
tear the armature up.  Terry showed me how to make the modification
last year and put a template on the armature to identify the width
and position of the flat and then inked in the flat boundry.  Going
to shallow on the depth means locking torque is too small and it may
hunt.  Going to deep makes the motor run too hot.  Where the flats
are made on the armature is not important as long as the two flats
are opposing each other (like at 180 degrees apart)

Gerry R.