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Re: PVC Pipe



Original poster: "Dr. Resonance" <resonance@xxxxxxxxxx>



We brush it on in thin coats while the coil is rotating.  30 min and you can
shut the rotation off and let it dry overnight.

Dr. Resonance


> All, > Thanks for all the information and suggestions on pipe for a secondary > coil. Forgive me, I'm a perfectionist. I have decided to go with the white > schedule 40 PVC and to dry and seal it inside and out. If the price I get > from the Dolph Company is reasonable, I plan to use their ER-44 > polyurethane coating. Here is Dolph's description: > Low cost, fast drying red polyurethane insulator. Excellent coverage and > protection. Oil and moisture resistant and excellent adhesion. > It also says that the dielectric strength is 2000 V per mil and AC-43 is > listed as 1800 V per mil. > It is listed under their insulator category and it comes in spray > cans,which I think will be easier to apply. > When Dolph gets back to me, I'll post the cost and any comments I get from > their rep as to suitability of the product for what I have planned. > Paul Brodie > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Tesla list" <<mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> > To: <<mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> > Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 2:06 PM > Subject: Re: PVC Pipe > > > Original poster: "Dr. Resonance" > <<mailto:resonance@xxxxxxxxxx>resonance@xxxxxxxxxx> > > > > > > > > > > Dolph's AC-43 is the best to use and it won't permeate. It's a special > > insulation formulated just for xmfr coil sealing. Available in quarts. See > > Dolph Co. on the internet and look at the companies history. > > > > We use this on all of our magnet wire coils. > > > > Dr. Resonance > > > > > > > Original poster: "Bob (R.A.) Jones" > <<mailto:a1accounting@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>a1accounting@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> > > > > > > Even if you dry the secondary tube the usually coatings are permeable to > > > water vapor so over a period of time the tube material will reach > > > equilibrium with atmospheric water vapor. > > > The winding because of its copper content probably represents a more > > serious > > > barrier if its coated. > > > Thick air tight baffles on the top and bottom of the tube probably also > > > represent serous barriers. > > > > > > I agree the primary reseaon for coating the windings are for mechanical > > > protection and to provide a smooth easily cleaned surface. > > > It may help a little with racing sparks and to an even lesser extent > > corona > > > formation. > > > > > > It also makes the coil look nice. > > > > > > Robert Jones > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Tesla list" <<mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> > > > To: <<mailto:tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> > > > Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 11:45 PM > > > Subject: Re: PVC Pipe > > > > > > > > > > Original poster: Karl Lindheimer > <<mailto:karl@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>karl@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> > > > > > > > > Gary, > > > > > > > > I would have to concur with your statement that sealing the secondary > > > > windings with poly or lacquer is a very good idea. The finish > > provides: > > > > 1. physical protection of the secondary windings. 2. > > > > Mechanical aid to prevent windings from slipping or uncoiling. 3. > > > > Insulation against racing sparks and arcing to primary. 4. A nice > > finish > > > > to look at. > > > > > > > > Dan; > > > > > > > > I also nearly agree with your statement that drying and sealing the > > > > secondary former is usually not necessary. Right now, in the > > Northeast, > > > > the humidity levels are under 20 %. You won't get much better even in > > a > > > > drying oven. The only time I would recommend oven drying and then > > sealing > > > > would be if the PVC tubing were exposed to very humid conditions > > outdoors > > > > for a while. Even then, it probably would not matter with the average > > > coil. > > > > > > > > Regards, > > > > > > > > Karl > > > > > > > > On Mar 11, 2005, at 5:55 PM, Tesla list wrote: > > > > > > > > >Original poster: "Lau, Gary" <<mailto:gary.lau@xxxxxx>gary.lau@xxxxxx> > > > > > > > > > >I would have to agree. But I do still like to apply several coats of > > > > >polyurethane over the wound secondary to keep things from moving > > about, > > > > >and general aesthetics. > > > > > > > > > >Regards, Gary Lau > > > > >MA, USA > > > > > > > > > > > Original poster: "Daniel McCauley" > > > > > ><<mailto:dhmccauley@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>dhmccauley@easternvoltag > eresearch.com> > > > > > > > > > > > > I don't think you have to worry about drying and sealing your PVC > > > > >pipe. To > > > > > > be honest, i think its a waste of time. > > > > > > I've built plenty of coils in the past years without doing this and > > > > >i've > > > > > > never had a problem. > > > > > > I wouldn't waste your time on that. > > > > > > > > > > > > Dan > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > All, > > > > > > > Thanks a lot for all the info on PVC pipe. They weren't kidding > > > > >when they > > > > > > > said everyone on here is nice and helpful! From what you've told > > me > > > > >and > > > > > > > from what I've seen other people using on their very successful > > > > >TC's, I > > > > > > > think I will just go ahead and dry and seal white schedule 40 > > PVC > > > > >inside > > > > > > > and out and use it. It certainly is cheap and easy to find. > > > > > > > Paul Brodie > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >