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RE: Help with making SRSG phase control work?



Original poster: "Lau, Gary" <Gary.Lau@xxxxxx>

Hi Phil:

Are you certain your motor is a salient pole type?  Since you have a
strobe, does the motor, without the phase controller, start up in the
same phase position every time?

I can't imagine why you blew the fuse.  The fuse should be in series
with the 30 uF run cap that you added, not the existing 2.5uF run cap,
but it still should not have blown.

Regards, Gary Lau
MA, USA


> Original poster: FIFTYGUY@xxxxxxx
>
> Folks-
>
>      I'm not having much luck implementing a "Freau" style phase
> controller for my SRSG.
>      First, motor details:
>      "Shinano Tokki" brand, P/N X7807-202V. 120V .35A, specs a 2.5uF
> run cap. 1800 rpm. Exactly the same as the one shown in the pic:
>
>
<http://www.tb3.com/tesla/sparkgaps/1800srsg/P2210012.jpg>http://www.tb3
.com/t
> esla/sparkgaps/1800srsg/P2210012.jpg
>
>   which is on Terry Blake's prop gap site:
>
>
<http://www.tb3.com/tesla/sparkgaps/1800srsg/1800srsg.html>http://www.tb
3.com/t
> esla/sparkgaps/1800srsg/1800srsg.html
>
>      I've already constructed the entire SRSG, copying Terry Blake's
> propeller style. I've also verified synchronism. I'm using a
> stroboscope to check the phase control.
>      Going by the schematic at John Freau's site:
>
>
<http://hometown.aol.com/futuret/page3.html>http://hometown.aol.com/futu
ret/page
> 3.html
>
>      The variac I've been using is a Staco model 291, 3A ~110V cute
> little variac.
>      Now, I started by simply inserting a variac in series with the
> motor's line connection. I also added a 1-1/2 amp fuse in series with
> the existing 2.5uF run cap.
>      When I checked with the stroboscope, the most phase adjustment I
> could get was perhaps 30 degrees. It acted weird, in that I could
> adjust the variac to move the phase in one direction, but turning it
> back to zero didn't move the phasing back with it. If I went more
> than about halfway on the variac position, the motor dropped out of
> synch. And yes, I'm only using the brush and one end of the winding,
> so the variac is running like a variable inductor.
>      Then I tried putting the variac in series with the run cap. This
> had even less phase adjustment, and dropped out of synch even quicker.
>      I used a clamp on amp meter, and neither of the motor windings
> went over .4 amps under any condition.
>
>      So back to the drawing board... I figured John meant I should be
> adding not only a variac, but a new, larger cap in addition to my
> existing run cap. In other words, the motor on his schematic really
> represented the existing motor system, complete with its run cap.
>      I took a 30uF run cap, and hooked up the circuit exactly as
> shown on John's site. I kept the motor's own 2.5uF run cap hooked up
normally.
>      The motor ran fine at zero on the variac setting. As soon as I
> moved the variac by about 10 degrees, I heard a buzz for about 5
> seconds, then nothing. Motor kept running. Sure enough, the 1-1/2 amp
> fuse had blown.
>      I'm getting a little frustrated, and I don't want to burn
> something up by blind trial and error. I figured if I'm having
> problems with slightly smaller values of inductance and capacitance,
> then I'm not going to attempt the experiment with a full 7.5A variac
> and 47uF cap.
>      Where does the motor's existing run cap fit into all of this?
>      The motor has a run winding (125 ohms DC), and a winding in
> series with the run cap (185 ohms DC). The ends of both windings are
> connected to a common line lead coming out of the motor, so the motor
> itself has only three leads. It's a nice little motor, so I'm not
> going to attempt to run it without the run cap winding... Is there a
> better way to test the phase change, without hooking the motor up?
> I've got an o-scope.
>
> Thanks!
>
> -Phil LaBudde
>
>