[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Re: Gluing polycarbonate?
Original poster: "Scott Hanson" <huil888@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Forget using the 2-part epoxy unless you plasma-etch or sandblast the
areas you want to bond. Very few epoxies will create a reliable
long-term bond to polycarbonate unless the surface is specially prepped.
Since polycarbonate (Lexan, etc) is so sensitive to solvent-induced
stress cracking, most adhesives designed specifically for bonding
polycarbonate are 2-part reactive systems based on acrylic or
urethane resins. Most of the plastics fabrication shops I am familiar
with here in So. California use adhesives from IPS Weld-On.
See their line of adhesives specifically designed for compatability
with polycarbonate at:
http://www.ipscorp.com/industrial/polycarb.html If you want to try
any of these, and you can't find them locally, let me know and I can
pick some up at the plastics shop I visit every week.
This being said, I'd recommend using mechanical fasteners (nylon
screws) for securing your end plate. No matter how you look at it,
multiple fasteners will never fail instantly & catastrophically like
an adhesive bond can, and who wants to see their nice Freau toroid
with a big ding in the side ....
----- Original Message ----- From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: Gluing polycarbonate?
Original poster: Vardan <vardan01@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Thanks for your and the others comments on this :-)))
I will try a scrap test sample with two part epoxy with the surfaces
cleaned very well and all. If that does not seem to work well, I
think I will just drill and tap for #6 nylon screws. Apparently,
all other glues won't stick or will kill me from the fumes and
all. Screws are pretty easy too ;-)) The toroid is sort of large
and might put a lot of stress and the thing so the screws might be
best anyway. The end plates are already holed for the milling
machine so installing precision holes is easy.
At 10:02 PM 6/29/2006, you wrote:
You are right about the "super glue" Just like as depicted in CSI,
the glue will turn white with moisture, or any fingerprints inside
the tube. I have used it, but only after wiping the form down with
acetone, and using forced ventilation. Your best bet is 2-part epoxy.
It sets nicely, and can always be broken out if needed for repairs.
Even hot melt glue will work fine. Gorilla glue expands, and
usually makes a big mess.
On Jun 29, 2006, at 11:48 PM, Tesla list wrote:
What sort of glue will mate them??? I hear "super glue" reacts
bad with water in polycarb to make it all frosty. Many things
"don't stick". I am thinking epoxy or "gorilla glue". Rather not
use anything that has a terrible smell since it is indoors...