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Re: Big Toroids, collective conscious brain storm



Original poster: Stan <wsmg@xxxxxxxxxx>

Hey Jim,
I did a smaller one by taping it first and then bondoing it. I thought of mixing the bondo with pearlite(for drywall painting) and seeing if it lightens it up and is easier to sand on a bigger one I'll be working on. I spent 3 days sanding a 12" x 3". Cut down on the hardner to get more working time. Also at a body shop supply they have bondos that are lighter. I'm working on an idea that I can't reveal right now but will when I've gotten further into my experiments which will be awhile since I'm to busy with business right now. If it works it will be awesome for building big toroids.

Stan

Tesla list wrote:

Original poster: "Gerry  Reynolds" <gerryreynolds@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Hi Jim,

When I started my 8x32 toroid using Al ducting material, I tried to use bondo to fill.

+ Adhesion good
+ Sands smooth

- Expensive
- Takes a lot to fill the ridges
- Sanding goes slowly
- Its a two part material and the work time is too small

Someone mentioned a material that is akin to liquid balsa wood.

+Lighter than bondo
+Maybe easier to sand

-Dont know product name nor where to buy
-Hobby shop has stuff but only in small tubes (but this might be a start to getting some in bulk)
-Small tube was expensive (per oz)

Also someone mentioned a two part foam that could be used to fill the ridges (dont know the name).

+Readily available in bulk
+Not too expensive (iirc)
+Adhesion is good
+Sands easily

Gerry R

Original poster: "Jim Mora" <jmora@xxxxxxxxxxx>

My limited experience proves that attaching a smaller diameter, say 4" minor
of  dyer duct by 18 or 19" (scale as needed) added surprising plane rigidity
to the 8" x 32"+ business end toroid with dual pizza pans center. This
clearly reinforces the top hat which is still reasonably horizontal with no
visible plane distortions.

Ok, so we are down to the filling the ridges, and dent deterrent.

Bondo.