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Re: The ideal DC coil power supply? RE: RE: Xfmrs



Original poster: "Steve Ward" <steve.ward@xxxxxxxxx>

Ive been working on and off on my HVDC supply (CCPS).

Some info here:

http://www.stevehv.4hv.org/ccps1.htm

I havent really used it for tesla coiling much except for a few tests.
It really needed an output filter, and some other isolation to keep
it happy, but it did work.  I mainly use it for powering a C-W stack
or charging my large 5kj pulse cap (which it does rather quickly).  I
really like the SLR topology, its well behaved for short circuit
loads.  The output is basically constant current (close enough,
anyway...).

Steve


On 3/2/07, Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Original poster: Jim Lux <jimlux@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>

At 03:37 PM 3/2/2007, Tesla list wrote:
>Original poster: Yurtle Turtle <yurtle_t@xxxxxxxxx>
>
>If you just want something that's more than an NST but
>less than a pig, 120 volts input, small enough to
>carry/roll around easily, consider a PT:
><snip>




>If you just want to build a mini-pig then go for it.
>But if you want portability, I doubt you'll be able to
>get something as powerful, small, light as a PT.


What I'd like to see is a 15-20 kV DC supply that I can do triggered
spark gap coils with.  Say, 10 kW average power (30-40 Amps off 240V
line).  Doesn't need great regulation (actually, a constant current
source might be ideal), but does need fairly low ripple (because I
don't want line frequency hum).  Oh yeah.. I'd like low stored energy
on the HV side so it doesn't  blow things up (no giant DC filter
capacitor to get rid of ripple).

Actually, I wonder if you could design it so it had the equivalent of
the inductor and diode in a resonant charging (that is, when the gap
fires, it shuts down for a short time to allow the gap to quench, and
then turns back on).  It would be easy to give it an enable/disable
that's synchronized with the gap trigger.  It's simple to turn a PWM
on and off, but the output of the supply is going to have to take the
abuse of the ringing on the primary capacitor (i.e. the output will
swing negative), so it might not just be a matter of gating the
switcher on and off.

Say if it weighed 20 lbs and was "milk crate" sized that would be
fine.  (after all, the 30A power cord is going to weigh a substantial
amount)...