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Re: [TCML] Primary Tap connector



Hi Phil,

Yep, I did something similar. I used 1/2" brass rod stock (left-over from old spark gap). Works great.
http://www.classictesla.com/photos/ba45/s2749.jpg

1 screw to clamp the two halves together. 1 screw for the wire.

Take care,
Bart

FIFTYGUY@xxxxxxx wrote:
Folks-
Recently there was a short thread about different types of connectors to tap the primary coil. Well, I finally got around to taking a coupla pics of my primary tap connector: _http://members.aol.com/fiftyguy/TC_Primary_Tap_Conn_1.jpg_ (http://members.aol.com/fiftyguy/TC_Primary_Tap_Conn_1.jpg) _http://members.aol.com/fiftyguy/TC_Primary_Tap_Conn_2.jpg_ (http://members.aol.com/fiftyguy/TC_Primary_Tap_Conn_2.jpg) Very simple. I just took a small aluminum block, drilled it through for the wire, drilled and tapped for setscrews to hold the wire, drilled a hole for the primary coil's tubing (helps to drill from both sides at an angle to match the curve of the primary near the tap point, but not necessary), and drilled crosswise for the clamp bolt. I then sawed the block in two halves. Tapped the wire side for the clamp bolt, counter-bored the other half for the head of the clamp bolt so it wouldn't protrude. Rounded off all edges and corners. The set screws for the wire and the socket head cap screw for the clamp are stainless steel. I was hoping that they would be ozone resistant, and their higher resistance would mitigate inductive heating. Just make sure you use anti-seize on the threads, since otherwise stainless and aluminum can get quite sticky - and there's a lot of current pulsing through the thing... -Phil LaBudde
Center for the Advanced Study of Ballistic  Improbabilities



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