David,
Luckily I have 3-4 pairs of Tungsten rods but unfortunately only a 2 pairs
of 3" high insulators. I'll have to see if I can find something like wood
to temporarily mount them too. I'm assuming the more you have the closer
they should be to have an over all gap of about 1/4" (i.e. 4 pairs should
have 1/16" gap each to make an overall 1/4" gap total).
But first I'll try the 2 I have in "series" set to 1/8" gap each and see if
there is any significant improvement in spark length.
I am moving in a couple of weeks so I wont be able to try it for a 2-3
weeks though.
Thanks,
Tim
On Tue, Apr 7, 2015 at 10:22 AM, David <zipo@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> Tim - It wouldn't hurt to try them in series, maybe even 3 or 4 gaps in
> series and then adjust the total gap for best running. I believe you trying
> and experimenting will tell you a hole lot and be very worthwhile. Without
> some sort of elaborate ballasting it has been shown that two sparks in
> parallel can't happen, as soon as one gap fires the other gap goes to zero
> volts. And please let us know how the experiments go.
>
> to find the best answer you have to eliminate all of the bad answers first.
>
>
> David
>
> On 4/7/2015 10:39 AM, Timothy Gilmore wrote:
>
>> David,
>>
>> When I bought the tungsten spark gaps and fan I received this email:
>>
>> *Most folks use them in series and reduce the gap width on each one. For
>> example for a ¼ inch gap (a good place to start) they use two gaps in
>> series set a 1/8”. I have had excellent results using them in parallel.
>> For
>> the amount of current you are using I would use two gaps in parallel both
>> set at 1/4 inch. It works great and is easier to line up with the fan.*
>>
>>
>> Should I be using them at 1/8" gaps in serial then?
>>
>> Tim
>>
>> On Tue, Apr 7, 2015 at 8:26 AM, David <zipo@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>> Tim - Here is my take on spark gaps. First you say you have two gaps in
>>> parallel, not series but parallel? Only one spark at a time can happen
>>> in a
>>> parallel gap set up, maybe it will switch back and forth from one to the
>>> other but only one at a time. A single gap can provide the least
>>> resistance
>>> and more current in the primary circuit but does not quench and control
>>> ring down very well. putting multiple gaps in Series seems to provide an
>>> improvment in quenching and ring down control. To experiment with series
>>> multiple gaps would seem to be a logical next step, two, four, maybe even
>>> six gaps in series. A lot of people have had good results with the
>>> Richard
>>> Quick multi gap and is not to difficult to construct. The next step up
>>> would be a sucker gap, a lot of people like these and they give real good
>>> results, there are examples on the net. But I believe the best and most
>>> difficult is the Sync Rotary gap. my recommendation would be to
>>> experiment
>>> with the progression of gaps above but keep an eye to words the sync
>>> Rotary. Some thing I wish more people would do too, is cover your spark
>>> gap, put a largish box over it to block the light from it and to quiet it
>>> down a bit, doesn't have to be fancy, just a simple wooden box placed
>>> over
>>> it wile your running. Nasty gasses build up inside but for the length of
>>> time most of us run our coil it will be ok. For a 15kv NST the max
>>> voltage
>>> it can handle is about 25kv +- a bit peak, so you want the largest cap
>>> you
>>> can charge to 25kv. The Geek group capacitor chart is very good at
>>> appropriate cap values for a type of setup/gap being used.
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>> David
>>>
>>> On 4/7/2015 8:00 AM, Timothy Gilmore wrote:
>>>
>>> David,
>>>>
>>>> 72" WOW as I have similar specs but only get 36-48" or so.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Here are my specs:
>>>> 15kv, 120ma <-- Same (2 15kv 60mA NSTs)
>>>>
>>>> 3 levels of 0.010uf in parallel for 0.030uf mmc (30kv) <--- Seems
>>>> like
>>>> your double of what mine is
>>>>
>>>> 2 parallel tungsten gaps "about" 1/4" separation each (with a squirrel
>>>> cage
>>>> fan blowing on them) <--- *Should these be tighter since there are 2
>>>> of
>>>> them? (i.e. 1/8" inch each)*
>>>>
>>>> Secondary - 6"dia x 31"lg 1400 turns No. 24
>>>>
>>>> Top load - 6" x 25" aluminum dryer ducting and foil pizza pans with foil
>>>> wrapped cardboard between and nylon toilet bolt <-- NOT wrapped in 3"
>>>> aluminum tape
>>>> (Would wrapping this improve the length significantly). I have the
>>>> materials for an 8" aluminum dryer ducting, aluminum tape, 17.75" x 1"
>>>> circular wood table (to be wrapped in foil and then glued and possibly
>>>> aluminum taped). *Should I just wrap the 6" more flimsy version or go
>>>> with
>>>> the bigger 8" more solid heavier version (to construct) - OR use both on
>>>> top (wrapped/unwrapped in aluminum tape)?*
>>>>
>>>> Primary 0.25" copper refrigerator coil in single layer tapped at 12.5
>>>> turns
>>>>
>>>> I was thinking of the rotary gap motor version for the spark gap but
>>>> have
>>>> no idea where to even start on this. I was hoping to get everything the
>>>> best I could first before and if I go down that route.
>>>>
>>>> *So what has the greatest impact on spark length - the rotary spark gap
>>>> or
>>>> the wrapped aluminum tape on the toroid - or are both necessary?*
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Thoughts?
>>>>
>>>> Tim
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Apr 6, 2015 at 8:56 PM, David <zipo@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Timothy, List - I too have recently put together a 15kv, 120ma coil.
>>>> I'm
>>>>
>>>>> still tweaking for best out put. So far I'm getting 72" output and
>>>>> based
>>>>> on
>>>>> the way it was running and the way it was tuned I believe it will do at
>>>>> least 80" after it's fully peaked. I can only run outside so I'm having
>>>>> to
>>>>> wait for good weather.
>>>>> Here is a brief over view:
>>>>> 15kv, 120ma
>>>>> .0625uf mmc
>>>>> sync rotary gap @ 120 breaks/sec
>>>>> secondary - 7"dia x 27.3"lg 1500 turns No.26 wire
>>>>> Top load - 5" x 20" spun aluminum toroid
>>>>> primary - 10 turn 2 layer spiral
>>>>> Tesla equi drive circuit.
>>>>>
>>>>> There are two aspects of tuning and peaking that seem not to get the
>>>>> attention that they should (in my opinion).
>>>>> First is that if tuning with a signal generator and a oscilloscope you
>>>>> need to simulate the added capacitance of the spark. Adding a piece of
>>>>> wire
>>>>> the length of the spark your expecting to the top load and then tune
>>>>> with
>>>>> sig gen and o scope. This seems to be overlooked a lot. Java TC shows
>>>>> this
>>>>> very well. If you ad an additional cylindrical top load, on JTC,
>>>>> .02dia x
>>>>> length of spark (JTC will point it straight up) you will see a marked
>>>>> reduction in res. frequency.
>>>>> Second is that the safty gap or static gap width has a large impact on
>>>>> output. There are way of setting these gap for safest operation.
>>>>> However
>>>>> I'm guessing these gap widths get pushed a bit by savvy coilers but
>>>>> don't
>>>>> talk about it. At least on a sync rotary safety gap width has a big
>>>>> bearing
>>>>> on output. I would find it very interesting to hear what gap width
>>>>> people
>>>>> are using with what setup. And in full disclosure :) I have set both
>>>>> of
>>>>> my
>>>>> safety gaps at .22 using rounded brass draw pulls for electrodes.
>>>>> It just seems to take a lot of time to get every thing tweaked to
>>>>> Perfection.
>>>>>
>>>>> Carry on
>>>>> David
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 4/6/2015 9:34 AM, Timothy Gilmore wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Has anyone put together any sort of a listing of others Tesla Coils
>>>>>
>>>>>> built
>>>>>> with parameters listed such as:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> (for example): I have 2 NSTs (15kv, 60ma) each, 6" diameter, 31" high
>>>>>> secondary, torroid is ....
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I am getting 3-4' sparks and wondering if I should be getting longer
>>>>>> sparks. Is this normal? or should I add another NST or bigger Toroid
>>>>>> (working on an 8" diameter ducting bigger one). How do I know since
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> Tesla Map software says I should get "ideally" 72.6 inch sparks and
>>>>>> I'm
>>>>>> getting about 1/2 to 2/3 of that. Just wondering if it's not tuned
>>>>>> properly
>>>>>> (but I think it is) - or making a larger toroid is worth the effort if
>>>>>> I'll
>>>>>> gain a foot or more sparks.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> How does one know they are getting close to the best they can get in
>>>>>> spark
>>>>>> length?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have attached my Tesla Map file of current settings.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Tim
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>>>>>>
>>>>>>
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