[TCML] Slow progress.
btmeehan at gmail.com
Thu Nov 15 23:46:54 MST 2007
Nice! I like the slots to allow for the tubing to snap in - that is a great
idea. I feel as if you had seen my primary with two holes for the ty wraps
that never would stay in place too ... I ended up scrapping it and re-using
the heavy gauge copper in a different flat coil primary ...
What sort of connectors do you guys use to clip on to the primary?
Alligator clips - or some other home made thing?
On Nov 15, 2007 10:22 PM, Barton B. Anderson <bartb at classictesla.com> wrote:
> Hi Tim,
> I've never had to use a rubber mallet or hammer of any type. I don't
> quite "get that"! That just sounds like a bad idea from the start. 1/4"
> refrigeration tubing is very easy to work with. The biggest issue is
> supports. David Reiben made a similar primary using abs tubing and was
> quite successful, but I personally would not do as good a job. Thus, I
> use rigid supports to accommodate the primary tubing.
> Supports of the following are my preference for flat coils and certainly
> helps the winding process, but are a bit more difficult to make.
> The cuts into the center create a flexible snap in ability. Without the
> cuts, you'll "force" the tune into the holes and this will bend the
> tubing creating a poor connection. I used 3/8" acrylic for this
> particular standoff. All that is really needed is to purchase the
> tubing, drill a few drill sizes similar to this arrangement, and find
> the drill size which works well for the tubing. Then, just drill and cut
> the acrylic to size. It ends up very nice in the end.
> To get something nice, it takes some thought process with the method
> used. If your just looking for a working coil, even a messy primary will
> perform well. Been there and done that also (there's nothing wrong with
> that approach either). However, I wanted to point out another avenue.
> Tubing is great for tapping along it's length for tuning and if you are
> simply required to "snap in" the tubing into position, winding becomes a
> cake walk.
> I am also a big advocate of ty wraps. But, always use a single hole for
> a single ty wrap (never two holes). Two holes will allow the primary to
> slide all over the place. Simply insert the ty wrap up through a single
> hole, around the primary, and back down the same hole (securing on the
> bottom). This will ensure the primary stays in it's intended position.
> It's not as good as an acrylic standoff, but it's darn close.
> Here's an old picture of one my coils using a ty wrap primary (note I
> used acrylic strips between wood and primary).
> Take care,
> Tim Meehan wrote:
> > Hey Guys - thanks for the advice. I think that I'll probably try the
> > mallet and refrigerator tubing rather than stripping the insulation off
> > some power cable.
> > On Nov 15, 2007 5:38 AM, Lau, Gary <Gary.Lau at hp.com> wrote:
> >> Yes, I agree that using super-heavy gauge solid wire is awful to work
> >> with. 1/4" refrigeration tubing is MUCH more flexible and kink-free.
> >> Litz wire is the ideal primary conductor from an electrical
> perspective, it
> >> cannot be tapped to adjust the inductance. The same is true for "
> >> gauge multi-conductor cables".
> >> Regards, Gary Lau
> >> MA, USA
> >>> Behalf Of Tim Meehan
> >>> Sent: Wednesday, November 14, 2007 11:38 PM
> >>> To: Tesla Coil Mailing List
> >>> Subject: Re: [TCML] Slow progress.
> >>> I notice a lot of people using the heavy-gauge copper wire. I have
> >> it
> >>> too in some of my (ill-fated) coil projects. It isn't easy to bend
> >> around
> >>> and I was wondering if you could use the small gauge multi-conductor
> >> cables
> >>> or litz wire for the primary?
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