[TCML] Clarification on Windings Repair - Should This Work? Is
There a Better Way?
bartb
bartb at classictesla.com
Thu Apr 17 18:26:04 MDT 2008
Hi Tedd,
Well, if there's any possible way to get to the whole of the outer
winding, I would recommend simply unwinding the entire damaged layer.
Probably only a 100 volt reduction overall and requires you to only
unwind (no reconnection stuff).
Take care,
Bart
Tedd Payne wrote:
> To those who replied with their suggestions, and to those who haven't quite
> replied yet...
>
> Here's a little more info: I can't remove any windings and I can't remove
> more of the insulating material. This is an induction/spark coil in a nice
> wooden case. I need to work within the constraints described. Any more
> ideas?
>
> Thanks again for your creative thoughts.
>
> Tedd
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Tedd Payne" <teddp2 at comcast.net>
> To: "Tesla Coil Mailing List" <tesla at pupman.com>
> Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 8:52 PM
> Subject: [TCML] Windings Repair - Should This Work? Is There a Better Way?
>
>
> Hi,
>
> I'm trying to solve a problem with a spark coil, but maybe the solution
> could also benefit coilers in some way.
>
> I've exposed a small section of the outer layer of the high voltage
> secondary winding. The wire is very small, I can barely see the individual
> strands. Here's the problem: 3 or 4 of the strands are broken and I'd like
> to repair them. I'm not trying to reconnect individual broken pairs, I
> think it would be good enough to just "short" all the broken ends together.
> I don't think I can use a blob of hot solder because I don't think I can
> adequately prepare the ends to bond to the solder, and I don't want to risk
> heat damage to the surrounding area. Also, access to the wires is limited,
> kind of like in a hole. I don't think I want to use a conductive paint or
> glue, because if it doesn't work then I may have made things worse by adding
> something which would be hard or impossible to remove. Here's my idea: use
> finely powdered silver or copper to try to fill the area around the breaks,
> maybe using a little liquid carrier which would evaporate cleanly. My
> thought is that enough powder would allow electrical contact among all the
> broken ends. If that works, then I would probably seal the repaired area in
> some way.
>
> So, do you think the powder would work? Do you have a better idea?
>
> Thanks in advance for your comments!
>
> Tedd
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