[TCML] MMC pics
bartb at classictesla.com
Sat Jul 12 10:25:58 MDT 2008
Go to Radioshack and buy a solder sucker. Not the little goofy rubber
thing, but the type that is in cylinder form. Heat the solder then hold
the sucker tip next to the leads and suck up the solder. Once enough
solder is off the leads, you can then heat it again and bend the leads
up and away. Both of the resistors and caps won't get hot enough to hurt
them, but when it comes to soldering in general, you want to be on the
leads only long enough to solder and desolder. When heating the leads,
first put a dab of solder on the iron tip. Don't just put the tip on the
leads and wait for things to heat up. Wipe the tip off on a wet sponge
between soldering and desoldering. Turn the iron off between long
periods of no soldering, otherwise your tip will burn up.
I wouldn't use wood. Your just heading down another road of troubles if
you do. Target is a great place to buy cutting boards. Their 1/2" thick.
You want the white nylon type which is a simple no frills board. The
last time I bought these boards from Target (about a month ago), they
sold a package of 3 boards for just under $10. The largest board was
about 14" x 17.5" which is a nice large size. Then you can just easily
drill small holes for the caps in one string. It's also handy for
mounting brass screws to the end leads for wire connections.
The solder type is not important. One thing people should do after
soldering is to clean the solder side with soap and water. The solders
core flux is corrosive.
Nicholas J. Goble wrote:
> Yeah that does suck, but I'd rather take advice from a veteran than
> risk destroying the MMC. How do I unsolder the leads? Also, with all
> this soldering and unsoldering, am I damaging the caps and resistors?
> I know that resistors are pretty sensitive to heat, but what about
> caps? I don't want to destroy anything.
> I also don't want to buy another perf board. I'm running low on funds.
> Radio shack didn't have anyones that were long enough for me anyways.
> I have some scrap wood lying around and some spray acrylic polyurethane
> sealer. Could I seal the wood and mount the caps on that? I've heard
> that wood is lossy, so that's why I didn't use it in the first place.
> If wood doesn't work, do you have any suggestions as to where I could
> locally buy a long perf board (Indianapolis)? I don't want to order
> one online because 1) Low Funds and 2) I don't like waiting.
> By the way, does it matter what kind of solder I use? I used some lead
> based PC resin core solder.
> I know that's a lot of questions, but I feel like I'm kind of stumbling
> here. Thanks for your guidance.
> Nicholas Goble
> On 7/11/08 8:51 PM, "bartb" <bartb at classictesla.com> wrote:
>> Big problems. The solder side series string is being staggered in
>> sections of 3 on a square perf board. Your leads are far too close
>> together between "most" sections. If you fire it up like this, your
>> going to get arcing between the sections. Think of this: If you have
>> caps in series and say 12kV across the cap bank, then there will be
>> across each 3 cap section in your circuit. Another 3kV on the next
>> section, etc. The area with the bottom red and green circles will have
>> 6kV across those 2 very near leads. However, the middle caps leads of
>> those 2 sections are even closer. That's probably the main arcing spot.
>> You need to keep some distance. This square board isn't going to help
>> you much. You would be better off with a caps side by side in a single
>> run. Long perf board versus a square one.
>> I know it sucks to hear that after you've soldered all the leads, but
>> is what it is.
>> Take care,
>> Tesla mailing list
>> Tesla at www.pupman.com
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