[TCML] Secondary and Primary Assistance

[DC Cox]

A Sonotube (concrete form) works great for small and medium size coils.  I
have used it for up to 18 inch dia. secondaries.  Inexpensively available
from large contractor supply firms.

You just peel off the upper layer on the inside of the coil which contains
the slightly conductive release agent.  Then coat with 3 separate coats of
AC-43, both inside and outside.

After that insert two acrylic baffles approx 4-6 inches up from each end.
Prevents any interior flashover.  Affix in place with GE Silicone II.

Dr. Resonance




On 3/19/08, Mike H <mike8675309 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> So much information here, I just love it.  I'll check around locally
> and see what I can find.  I've been looking at forms for the
> secondary.  I see I have a distributor in town for EIS Industrial
> Supplies and they are a Dolphs reseller so I can likely get something
> local. If not I'll be in touch.
>
> Still deciding on a secondary form.  PVC is easy but It looks like I
> do have a couple local suppliers available for Acrylic or polystyrene
> tubes.  Got some calling to do next week and find out what is truly
> available for someone in small quantities.
>
> On Wed, Mar 19, 2008 at 11:21 AM, DC Cox <resonance at wildblue.net> wrote:
> > Dolph's AC-43 is the best you can use.  It is especially formulated to
> use
> >  in power transformer winding and has a high punture voltage.  Also
> excellent
> >  anti-tracking properties which is good engineering practice for HV
> coils
> >  operating at RF frequencies.  It is also excellent for sealing out any
> >  moisture.
> >
> >  I usually gently heat the windings for 3 hrs with 3 heat lamps, and
> then
> >  apply the varnish while the coil is still warm.  The gentle heat drives
> out
> >  any moisture prior to winding.  Use a thermometer to set temp approx
> 150
> >  degrees F. for 2-3 hrs.  Another good idea is to preheat the coilform
> for 30
> >  minutes just prior to winding --- drives out a moisture.
> >
> >  I carry it in 5 gallon cans and can usually spare a quart if you need
> some.
> >  Contact me off-list.
> >
> >  Dr. Resonance
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >  On 3/19/08, Mike H <mike8675309 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >  >
> >  > Bart,
> >  >
> >  > On the question of the coating that you discussed, Is there an
> >  > electrical, or other performance behavior that has you preferring
> >  > marine varnish?  Or is it just a question of for the application, you
> >  > want to make sure you coat things fully, and thus based on price, the
> >  > marine varnish simply makes more sense with little to no downside?
> >  >
> >  > Thanks
> >  > Mike
> >  >
> >  > >  Considering our outer layer "coatings" (and I personally don't
> like
> >  > >  polyurethanes but prefer marine spar varnish which to me is the
> best
> >  > >  coating for the price), the coating itself protects outside issues
> that
> >  > >  can cause turn to turn shorts, but the turn to turn voltage issue
> is
> >  > >  dependent on the wire insulation. I've never heard mention a
> problem
> >  > >  with that.
> >
> >
> > > _______________________________________________
> >  > Tesla mailing list
> >  > Tesla at www.pupman.com
> >  > http://www.pupman.com/mailman/listinfo/tesla
> >  >
> >  _______________________________________________
> >  Tesla mailing list
> >  Tesla at www.pupman.com
> >  http://www.pupman.com/mailman/listinfo/tesla
> >
> _______________________________________________
> Tesla mailing list
> Tesla at www.pupman.com
> http://www.pupman.com/mailman/listinfo/tesla
>