[TCML] Lacquer

Bill Noble william_b_noble at msn.com
Fri Apr 9 09:03:08 MDT 2010 

no no no - too hard, as you say.  make a box out of 1" plywood with a hinged 
lid and a rubber seal on the hinged lid - put everything inside - bring 
power to the motor out by putting two screws all the way through the 
plywood.  make a small porthole (maybe 2 inches) and inset it 1/4 inch into 
the plywood lid, seal with RTV.  close up and test to make sure it holds 
(I'm sure it will but I didn't do any calculations) - now, with the lid 
open, put in  your coil, turn on motor and apply epoxy - when it's all 
applied, close lid and turn on vacuum pump.  the vacuum will pull the lid 
down hard against the seal so there will be very little leakage (if you 
built your box well) - leave the pump running for however long it takes the 
epoxy to get past the gel stage, at least.  The kind of pump I show on my 
web page is what you want, not a lab high vacuum pump - so you can draw the 
vac to 20 to 25 inches.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Phillip Slawinski" <pslawinski at gmail.com>
Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 5:42 AM
To: "Tesla Coil Mailing List" <tesla at pupman.com>
Subject: Re: [TCML] Lacquer

> Bill,
>
> I had already contemplated creating something like you describe.  I had
> dismissed the idea as being "crazy" because of the cost and effort
> involved.  It would be pretty expensive to even accommodate something the
> size of the secondary on my small DRSSTC.   Imagine if I were to want to 
> use
> this idea on something like a 12" x 48" secondary.  Also the whole box 
> would
> have to be made of very thick, and very expensive acrylic (or
> polycarbonate), or at least have lots of portholes. Then you have to have 
> a
> mechanical system for applying the epoxy, or gloves, further adding to the
> cost.  Maybe I can convince the folks at Marshall Space Flight center to 
> let
> me use one of their vacuum chambers. (Fat chance)  I happen to live very
> close to MSFC, and I work even closer.  Sitting at my desk, I'm only about
> ten minutes away from some sizable vacuum chambers.
>
> -Phillip Slawinski
>
> Onhu, Apr 8, 2010 at 22:18, Bill Noble <william_b_noble at msn.com> wrote:
>
>> yeah, but ---- that wouldn't work - the thing needs to be turning while 
>> you
>> apply epoxy, then while it's still turning, seal and draw vac.  if you 
>> had
>> high quality rotary vac seal you could get away with motor outside -
>> sometimes a good sealed ball bearing will do (see the article on vacuum
>> chucks on my web page for if you are desperate - wbnoble.com) but, if you
>> can make a box that will handle the (very large) compressive forces, that
>> would be easiest - remember you will have about 15 psi, and those square
>> inches add up quickly.
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------
>> From: "Yurtle Turtle" <yurtle_t at yahoo.com>
>> Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 2:04 PM
>>
>> To: "Tesla Coil Mailing List" <tesla at pupman.com>
>> Subject: Re: [TCML] Lacquer
>>
>>  You wouldn't need to have the motor inside the vacuum. A larger pipe 
>> with
>>> endcaps and a vacuum fitting could be fitted over the freshly coated
>>> secondary. Both the vacuum pipe and the secondary could share the same
>>> shaft, which could be connected to the motor. Pump it down then spin it 
>>> up.
>>>
>>> Still, a lot of work.
>>>
>>> --- On Thu, 4/8/10, Bill Noble <william_b_noble at msn.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>  From: Bill Noble <william_b_noble at msn.com>
>>>> Subject: Re: [TCML] Lacquer
>>>> To: "Tesla Coil Mailing List" <tesla at pupman.com>
>>>> Date: Thursday, April 8, 2010, 2:20 PM
>>>> if it just so happens that you have a
>>>> container you can seal that will hold the coil and the
>>>> mechanism to rotate it while the epoxy cures, and that it so
>>>> happens that you have a vacuum pump, and you use grease with
>>>> a low vapor point on the bearings of the motor, then you
>>>> could get rid of the bubbles by drawing a vacuum - not a
>>>> high vacuum - 20 to 25 inches would be fine
>>>>
>>>> --------------------------------------------------
>>>> From: "Phillip Slawinski" <pslawinski at gmail.com>
>>>> Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 10:18 AM
>>>> To: "Tesla Coil Mailing List" <tesla at pupman.com>
>>>> Subject: Re: [TCML] Lacquer
>>>>
>>>> > Rob,
>>>> >
>>>> > Well, it took me a lot of practice to get results like
>>>> that (and believe it
>>>> > or not, I'm still not entirely satisfied with
>>>> it).  I use a plastic spreader
>>>> > to apply the epoxy.  On the first few coils I did
>>>> I tried using a foam brush
>>>> > (that's a BAD idea).  I have a DC gear motor to
>>>> spin the form.  I have that
>>>> > hooked to a variable DC supply and I can adjust the
>>>> speed down to about four
>>>> > RPM.  It's important to apply the epoxy at a
>>>> slightly higher speed than you
>>>> > let it cure at.  This ensures minimal
>>>> dripping.  After you ensure that the
>>>> > epoxy is spread evenly over the form you can slow the
>>>> speed down.  I use a
>>>> > heat gun to remove small bubbles from the
>>>> finish.  You have to experiment
>>>> > with this, because if you heat up one spot too much it
>>>> will bubble, or it
>>>> > will become so runny that it drips off the form.
>>>> One more important note:
>>>> > you should do this in a low or preferably no traffic
>>>> room.  Be careful not
>>>> > to move too quickly and stir up dust.  If dust
>>>> lands on the form during the
>>>> > initial phase of curing it will make a dimple in the
>>>> finish.
>>>> >
>>>> > -Phillip Slawinski
>>>> >
>>>> > On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 10:43, Rob Byron <mustang_5l87 at hotmail.com>
>>>> wrote:
>>>> >
>>>> >> Phillip,
>>>> >> How do you get your epoxy so crystal clear? I use
>>>> a two-part epoxy ( not
>>>> >> cheap stuff) and it allways ends up foggy looking
>>>> because of microsopic
>>>> >> bubbles. I use a 24h cure and have it set up on a
>>>> rotating assembly with a
>>>> >> microwave turntable motor. Is it how you mix it
>>>> that matters? Or how you
>>>> >> apply it?  Your coils look amazing by the
>>>> way!
>>>> >>
>>>> >> Rob.
>>>> >>
>>>> >> ________________________
>>>> >>
>>>> >> On 2010-04-08 09:33:32 -0600 Phillip Slawinski
>>>> <pslawinski at gmail.com>
>>>> >> wrote:
>>>> >>
>>>> >> >
>>>> >> > Hi All,
>>>> >> >
>>>> >> > I too use the two-part epoxy coating on all
>>>> my coils.  I built a coil
>>>> >> from
>>>> >> > the ground up to produce a long spark length
>>>> compared to the secondary
>>>> >> > length.  It has taken a lot of work, but
>>>> I think the results were worth
>>>> >> it.
>>>> >> > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pslawinski/4354745760/
>>>> During the process
>>>> >> of
>>>> >> > developing this coil I have had multiple
>>>> flash overs.
>>>> >> > http://www.flickr.com/photos/pslawinski/4309814799/
>>>> I haven't lost a
>>>> >> > secondary to a flash over or spark related
>>>> event.  My secondary is > wound
>>>> >> > with 34 AWG on a 12" x 3.5" form.  Not
>>>> coating a form with such fine > wire
>>>> >> is
>>>> >> > simply not an option.  The wire is very
>>>> fragile, and will break with > only
>>>> >> a
>>>> >> > mild amount of force, also with wire this
>>>> fine expansion and > contraction
>>>> >> of
>>>> >> > the form due to temperature change will cause
>>>> the windings to loosen up
>>>> >> and
>>>> >> > fall down.  Sadly, I know this from
>>>> experience.
>>>> >> >
>>>> >> > -Phillip Slawinski
>>>> >> >
>>>> >> > On Thu, Apr 8, 2010 at 08:22, Peter Terren
>>>> <pterren at iinet.net.au>
>>>> > wrote:
>>>> >> >
>>>> >> >> Firstly, the experiment with the
>>>> conventional coil is not conclusive,
>>>> >> >> sorry.  Power was "about 20%" in the
>>>> pre shot with racing sparks. No
>>>> >> >> mention
>>>> >> >> of actual values for the post shot and
>>>> the sparks look very different >> on
>>>> >> >> the
>>>> >> >> pics.
>>>> >> >> I am not saying the result is wrong, but
>>>> it is highly likely the
>>>> >> original
>>>> >> >> power level was not reproduced.
>>>> >> >>
>>>> >> >> Secondly, DRSSTC's are different beasts
>>>> in terms of coupling. >> Obtaining
>>>> >> >> better Watt's ratios (spark length/sec
>>>> length) seems a lot easier. >> 13:4
>>>> >> =
>>>> >> >> 3.25 does not seem remarkably efficient
>>>> in this regard.
>>>> >> >> On the other hand using an SGTC coil with
>>>> no special insulation, I >> have
>>>> >> >> Watt's ratios of 3.0
>>>> (96inches/32in).  Others have claimed larger >>
>>>> ratios
>>>> >> >> for
>>>> >> >> SGTC's but I have not seen clear photos
>>>> to show this.  If you want to
>>>> >> >> follow
>>>> >> >> this link copy and paste it into your
>>>> browser.
>>>> >> >> http://tesladownunder.com/tesla_coil_sparks.htm#6 inch
>>>> coil (the best
>>>> >> >> ones)
>>>> >> >>
>>>> >> >> Nevertheless, the previous discussion of
>>>> using ?Envirotex as a very
>>>> >> thick
>>>> >> >> layer does really seem to provide a lot
>>>> of protection.
>>>> >> >> Some years ago I started a TC project to
>>>> dramatically outperform this
>>>> >> 3.0
>>>> >> >> Watts number. A lot of special
>>>> fabrication was done and I still have
>>>> >> >> everything ready to start some final
>>>> plans and construction. One day
>>>> >> when I
>>>> >> >> have a few moments........
>>>> >> >>
>>>> >> >> Peter
>>>> >> >>
>>>> >> >>
>>>> >> >>
>>>> >> >>
>>>> >> >> On 8/04/2010 1:16 PM, Dr.Hankenstein
>>>> wrote:
>>>> >> >>
>>>> >> >>> Greetings,
>>>> >> >>>
>>>> >> >>> If you're not too sure on the effects
>>>> of a good coating (or two or
>>>> >> >>> three) of varnish; please refer to a
>>>> scientific evaluation on the
>>>> >> >>> following link:
>>>> >> >>>
>>>> >> >>> http://www.audiotesla.org/corona%20experiment.htm
>>>> >> >>>
>>>> >> >>> This should remove all doubt that
>>>> varnish does more than just hold >>> the
>>>> >> >>> winding in place and end the
>>>> hypothetical armchair speculation. Dr.
>>>> >> >>> Spark has at least 80 coats of
>>>> varnish on "Fatboy"---13+ footers out >>> of
>>>> >> >>> a 4 foot secondary proves it:
>>>> >> http://www.drspark.org/fatboy1_rebuild.htm
>>>> >> >>>
>>>> >> >>> Regards,
>>>> >> >>> Hank
>>>> >> >>>
>>>> >>
>>>> >>>   _______________________________________________
>>>> >> >> Tesla mailing list
>>>> >> >> Tesla at pupman.com
>>>> >> >> http://www.pupman.com/mailman/listinfo/tesla
>>>> >> >>
>>>> >> >
>>>> _______________________________________________
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>>>> >> >
>>>> >>
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>>>
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