[Prev][Next][Index][Thread]
RE: Secondary wire & insulation
Subject: RE: Secondary wire & insulation
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 14:14:36 -0400
From: "Engle, Daniel (NJAOST)" <DEngle-at-NJAOST.ML-dot-com>
To: "'Tesla List'" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
My father has a wood shop and makes many items coated with
enamel/polyurethane. In order to minimize bubbles he would go over the
surface with a propane torch fairly quickly. It would "remelt" the top
layer of poly just enough for the bubbles to pop. (He would check it
every 1/2 hour to 1 hour...). Just don't stop at one place or the poly
will start to smoke/flame! You might want to give that a try...
Dan Engle
Amateur Coiler (Hopefully going to start building/acquiring parts for my
first one this weekend)
-----Original Message-----
From: Tesla List [SMTP:tesla-at-pupman-dot-com]
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 1997 5:26 AM
To: tesla-at-poodle.pupman-dot-com
Subject: RE: Secondary wire & insulation
Subject: RE: Secondary wire & insulation
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 97 05:26:20 UT
From: "William Noble" <William_B_Noble-at-msn-dot-com>
To: "Tesla List" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
the bubbles are not air, they are trapped solvents. if you force
dry a
thick
coat of enamel/polyurethane, the surface dries first and doesn't
let the
stuff
underneath out. If you want to force dry, use many VERY THIN
coats.
Else, be
patient. Get dupont book on automotive painting if you want the
long
story,
or believe me if you want just the short story.
-----Original Message-----
[bill] snip
I have wound all three of my secondaries on a lathe and had good
results.
The last two, I layered on thick coats of cleary poly and left
the
lathe
turning while it dried. I tried heat lamps and they caused air
bubbles
to
come up to the surface and it looked like hell - but maybe the
air
needed to
get out anyway??
Ed Sonderman