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Re: Primary Materials (fwd)





---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 21 Jul 1998 19:11:13 EDT
From: Esondrmn-at-aol-dot-com
To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
Subject: Re: Primary Materials (fwd)

In a message dated 98-07-19 23:33:38 EDT, you write:

<< 
 Once again a fledgling coiler has yet another question. Yesterday I made my
 flat pancake coil form out of four pieces of 1/2 inch PVC mounted radially
 on some painted plywood. After making my coilform, I tried winding the
 thing with thin-wall 1/4 copper tubing. I had trouble. The tubing kept
 kinking and never formed a good circle. After struggling with about 6 turns
 I called it quits and removed the tubing. Yesterday's fiasco has swayed me
 to winding the primary with coax. Now, will using coax reduce coil
 performance? I thought maybe eventually I could try tubing again and
 replace it if it does. Do you use both coax conducters or just the outer
 sheilding? One the coil masters out there should write an article on
 primary winding (RQ seems pretty with that type of thing) Well, anyway, my
 next post will either be me asking for help with trouble shooting my
 completed coil or a link to some great operating pictures. I'm hoping for
 the later. Thanks Again,
  >>
Adam,

I have made two copper tubing primaries using 3/8" tubing with 3/8" spacing.
Both turned out great.  I set the primary support on the table then set the
roll of tubing on a board suspened about three feet above the table.  I set a
full one gallon paint can in the center of the tubing to keep it from falling
on my head.  I slide a tubing bender (looks like a spring) over the tubing
then lay it in the innermost first slot and spot tie it in place.  I used
waxed lacing cord the first time and small nylon ties the second time - they
are easier on the fingers.  I have a small hole drilled in the support right
under each groove that has been cut or milled to the same diameter as the
tubing.  I just work the tubing into place usually forming it so you have
about one full turn in the right place then tie the next spot and keep working
it.  The tubing comes out of the roll already in a circle and doesn't take a
whole lot of bending.  I use a 3/8" drill bit to make sure all the spacing is
correct as I go.  I have also designed and built the primary supports so that
each slot is staggered so when the first turn comes around to start the second
turn, there is no jog over to the next support - all nice and smooth.  Each 14
turn primary took about 4 hours just to lay the tubing in place and tie it -
hurts your back, but looks great when you are done.

Ed Sonderman