Re[2]: Ryan's Coil = DOES NOT WORK!

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Ryan Ries by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <spud-at-wf-dot-net>

Well, the only ammeter I have is part of my DMM, which is not meant to
measure more than 20 amps -at- 120v.  My pig has no switch on it.  It is a
very basic pig, and you can see a picture of it at
<http://spud.pureinsanity-dot-net/articles/pig.jpg>  It has a turns ratio of
1:60 on the outer LV bushings, thus conecting 240v to the two outer
bushings yeilds 14.4kv.  I know this because connecting 120v to the two HV
bushings measures 2 volts on the LV side.  I have never even opened the
can, let alone modified its innards.  I can tell you that once, in
desperation, we just used one MOT for ballasting (120v 1200w MOT). The
ensuing Jacob's Ladder was amazing; very hot and very big.  Of course,
since a 120v MOT won't last long ballasting a 240v pig, it only lasted
about 1.5 seconds.  Now when we try to use two identical MOTs in series,
the pig, when it decides to work at all, makes a baby Jacob's Ladder that
is less than that of a 12kv/30ma NST.  Sometimes I wish that there was a
resident Tesla coil expert that lived right down the street that could come
tell me what I was doing wrong.  But I guess then I wouldn't be as proud of
myself when I fixed it.  Anyway, my friend and I are making a short video
for interscholastic competition involving our Tesla coil.  We have done
half of the video in 3D modeling, using Inspire3D, etc.  The instructor
says that just the half we have would easily win a place in the state
competition.  The other half of the video includes actual footage though. 
We've taken as much footage as possible of just us working on it and stuff,
but it's hard to take film of the coil in operation when we can't get it to
operate. :)  Anyway, I digress.  I appreciate you heping me trying to get
my coil to work!

	-- Ryan Ries

----------
> From: Tesla list <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
> To: tesla-at-pupman-dot-com
> Subject: Re: Ryan's Coil = DOES NOT WORK!
> Date: Saturday, January 27, 2001 11:06 AM
> 
> Original poster: "BunnyKiller by way of Terry Fritz
<twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>" <bigfoo39-at-telocity-dot-com>
> 
> Tesla list wrote:
> 
> > Original poster: "Ryan Ries by way of Terry Fritz
<twftesla-at-uswest-dot-net>"
> <spud-at-wf-dot-net>
> >
> >         This is not really a problem with my Tesla coil itself, I'm
just
> working
> > getting the power supply to work.
> 
> snipperz...
> 
> 
> Hi Ryan...
> 
> do you have an amp meter? if you do, hook the mots up to 120 v direct and
> see what the
> current draw is. if it is say 15 amps then when hooked to a 240 volt
system
> you should see
> 30 amps draw...
> 
> does your piggie have a switch on the case? ( for 7200 vs. 14000 volts
> rating)  or is the
> piggie "hard wired" inside to be just a 14000 V out unit?  have you made
> any internal
> changes to the piggie?
> 
> most piggies have a transformer that is composed of 4 "windings" on the
> core these 4
> windings are composed of 2 primaries and 2 secondaries...  the
secondaries
> are hooked
> together in series and the 2 primaries are connected in parallel.  this
of
> course is for a
> 240 Vin and 14400 Vout  ( the "primary" windings are the ones with the
wide
> aluminum
> straps marked A,B,C,D  (( if memory serves me correctly A&B are primary 1
> and C&D are
> primary 2...  therefore for a parallel hook up connect A&C to small lug 1
> and B&D to small
> lug 3. the middle small lug is not used))
> 
> unfortunately the "secondary" side output wires are not marked but the
way
> they come out
> if the core is a determining factor as to which one is what... normally
> there are 4 wires
> ( 2 on the left side and 2 on the right side) (( both left wires are the
> "lefts" of 2
> secondaries and the "rights" are the other ends of the secondaries.... 
one
> left is the hi
> output, the 2nd left is hooked to a right wire and the 2nd right is the
> other hi output))
> if you hook up one left and a right toghether and see no output , the 2
> secondaries are
> opposed you will need to then hook up the other right wire to the same
left
> you just used
> 
> check with an ohm meter and see if you get about 2 - 5 ohms on the
primary
> and about 10-20
> ohms on the secondary also check and see if you get any low ohm readings
> from each lug to
> the can ( if you are getting readings from the can to any of the
> input/output lugs there
> may be a shorting problem  but this is not always the case)
> 
> as far as sparks for a Jacobs ladder ...  I need to have about 1/4" -
1/2"
> of space
> between my electrodes to get it to jump, from there it climbs up the
tubes
> ( I use 1/4"
> copper tubing for my ladder)
> 
> Scot D
> 
> 
> 
>