Re: Metal Rotor = Isolated Motor?

["Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>]

Original poster: "Jason Johnson by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>" <hvjjohnson13-at-hotmail-dot-com>


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tesla list" <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2001 2:54 AM
Subject: Re: Metal Rotor = Isolated Motor?


> Original poster: "Bert Hickman by way of Terry Fritz <twftesla-at-qwest-dot-net>"
<bert.hickman-at-aquila-dot-net>
>
> Jason,
>
> Some of the prior comments from other list members may be due to an
> incomplete understanding of your gap's configuration.
>
> It sounds as though you have a pair of stationary electrodes, and one of
> them is connected to ground?

Nope. I do have two stationary electrodes, one goes to one side of my
transformers and to the primary, and my other goes from the other side of my
transformers to the cap. There is no ground connection, my MOTs are center
tapped at their cores, so both sides are hot (also I do not ground the
center tap between the MOTs) This is while its in the tank circuit, for
testing it was just an MOT across both stationaries. I also found out that
it was a 1700 volt MOT used for testing, not a 2000 volt unit (not that it
makes much difference).

 Or are you running the tank circuit current
> through the motor's bearings?

Nope.

 Are you running the gap motor from an
> isolation transformer? If not, then your motor winding is indeed
referenced
> to mains ground (at least from a high voltage standpoint).

I'm not running from an isolation transformer, so your right the windings
are connected to mains ground, sort of. There is no ground connection to the
motor since it has a two prong plug-in, but it is referenced to mains
nuetral (which is not necessarily ground, at least in my garage :-)

>
> I won't give you any static about putting your finger on the middle of the
> aluminum rotor while testing it with a MOT since you already knew it was
> dangerous... I'm just curious why you'd consider risking your life testing
> a theory this way. To paraphrase the adage about mushroom hunters: There
> are old coilers... there are bold coilers, but there are very few old,
bold
> coilers.

Yes, I know. I had tested the shaft with my DMM, but the battery was running
low and it was giving funny readings (it always reads high when the battery
is low for some reason), so I stuck my finger there. Now I have been bitten
by quite alot of electrical apparatus, and I don't even really notice a
mains shock anymore, it just feels a little funny. I didn't figure that this
could hurt me a whole lot more than the 1uf 3500 volt cap I accidentally
discharged with my hand an hour before that (it was SUPPOSED to have a
bleeder resistor that must have disapeared :-o

>
> Please play safely - your future pig won't give you any second chances...

I don't even joke about getting around anything above 2500 volts. Whereas
I've been accidentally shocked by most everything in my garage under 3000
volts (you mean that wire was rated for 600 volts and not 6000? No wonder it
tingled :-) I've never been shocked by anything over that (with the
exception of an ignition coil, but I don't consider them extremely
dangerous, plus it wasn't accidental :-).

Jason Johnson

>
> -- Bert --
> --
> Bert Hickman
> Stoneridge Engineering
> Email:    bert.hickman-at-aquila-dot-net
> Web Site: http://www.teslamania-dot-com
>