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RE: Kill-A-Watt Resurrecting
- To: tesla@pupman.com
- Subject: RE: Kill-A-Watt Resurrecting
- From: "Tesla list" <tesla@pupman.com>
- Date: Fri, 02 May 2003 13:44:48 -0600
- In-Reply-To: <3D74B6131C67CA48B6AD345B21CCA8BF2ACB64@EMSS04M19.us.lmco.com>
- Resent-Date: Fri, 2 May 2003 13:45:22 -0600
- Resent-From: tesla@pupman.com
- Resent-Message-ID: <2Qdib.A.EbD.Prss-@poodle>
- Resent-Sender: tesla-request@pupman.com
Original poster: "Terry Fritz" <teslalist@qwest.net>
Hi Dan,
At 07:57 AM 5/2/2003 -0400, you wrote:
>Terry,
>
>Perhaps you could reverse engineer the entire device and post some
>schematics so that all of us here on the group and bang our heads together
>and come up with some sweet modifications. I no longer have the few i had
>and blew up (since I sent them back for refund), so I can't help you there.
It is just a voltage/current pickoff. They use a 1/2 inch loop of like #14
resistance wire for current. Pictures (big ones) of the insides are at:
http://hot-streamer.com/temp/Kill-A-Watt/P3120005a.jpg
http://hot-streamer.com/temp/Kill-A-Watt/P3120006a.jpg
They have a little protection circuitry and perhaps some rectifier or zero
crossing stuff too. Not much too it.
Cheers,
Terry
>Regarding calibration, how are they measuring current? If it is a current
>sense resistor, you can simply replace that resistor with a different value,
>or if a small current donut, add more turns to the donut.
>
>The Captain
>