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RE: Toroid made easy

Original poster: "Dave Halliday" <dh@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

I am starting to learn about blacksmithing and Stainless is a bear to
work hot.
You would also really need to TIG weld it, you can MIG stainless but the
weld can be porous.
Mild steel is a lot better.

Also, a heads up on the more common grades of steel.  The standard
hot-rolled (with the scaled surface) is graded as A36. A36 is remelted
scrap steel and it can be very inconsistent in quality from area to
area; they do not homogenize it, they only guarantee a certain minimum
strength.  If the piece you are working with had a ball bearing
(high-carbon - strong) and a piece of car bumper (low carbon - weak),
you will find an area that will balloon out and an area that simply will
not move.

Cold rolled (with the shiny surface) is generally a bit better and you
can always go to the 10xx series of alloys if you can find them. (1018
would be good for this) If you get to know your local metal supplier,
you can sometimes piggyback an order onto one of theirs and not pay a

[stuff snipped]

> I am going to try this with mirror finished stainless steel
> and report the
> results back here.
> I have an induction heating unit that I don't know how to use
> yet (and am
> not going to figure out for this) but that is the way to go
> on heating up
> the flat blanks.
> BTW, does anyone have any comments regarding the efficacy of
> using stainless
> steel (stainless steel has ~1/27 the conductivity of aluminum
> according to
> one internet source) as a toroid vs. aluminum or copper in
> tesla coil usage?
> Regards,
> Al Erpel
> [stuff snipped]
>  >  You can get a 98% accurate idea of the actual size by bending
>  >a sheet of paper into a radius to see how large your finished
>  >balloon shape toroid will be.
>  >
>  >Gary Weaver