Original poster: Tom Perigrin <tip@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
At 08:56 PM 1/9/2007, you wrote:
Original poster: Mike <megavolts61@xxxxxxxxx>
 You can't get cheaper and simpler than some saw cuts and
electrical tape.
-Phil LaBudde
(save your time and money for the IGBT's)
Although I'm a big advocate of going cheaply as possible,  I'd have 
a problem with the visual asthetics of this idea when spending 
thousands on what is a showpiece.
More than that...   consider the power going through the coil.
Consider what happens if those saw fingers only contact the next 
section of pipe at a few places,  with a little copper oxide in 
between the two layers of copper metal, giving a resistance of 1 ohm 
for each joint.  The current flub through a joint of 1 ohm and 10 
square mm is going to be "fun".   Also, as the copper heats it will 
oxidize even faster,  giving us the sort of problem we see with a 
poorly fitting terminal on a car battery.  Heck, I've seen that sort 
of problem with the poorly made plug on my Chinese Air Conditioner...
after 1 year of use I unplugged it and was scared to death by the 
amount of carbonization evidenced around the prongs.
I'd suggest getting a plug and socket made for each joint.  The plug 
and socket would consist of a 4" OD taper by about 12" long.   These 
should be accurately turned to be +/- 0.001 (or better).  Then,  get 
them gold plated with at least 0.005 of  24K gold.     Also,  there 
should be a mechanism like a pipe union that snugs the joint 
together.     Clean the joints with warm soapy water before each 
use, and make a protective covering for transport.  That's not going 
to be a lot of gold..
Sound like  MIL-SPEC ?  Yeah, probably...  but when you are working 
with something like this,  it's better not to screw it all up by 
trying to save a few bucks on such a critical part.
Failing that,  I liked the previous suggestion of Stainless Steel 
inserts...  those can be wire brushed with a brass brush before 
assembly to assure there is no oxidized layer contributing 
resistance.   I don't think you should use copper on copper, unless 
you implement a strict protocol of having each joint thoroughly 
cleaned and degreased before each assembly.