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Re: troubleshooting tesla coil, continued (fwd)



---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Fri, 21 Sep 2007 00:17:34 -0500
From: resonance <resonance@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: troubleshooting tesla coil, continued (fwd)



You should design with 1 mil thick sheets and rate the design around 300 
Volts per mil max.

It's a lot easier to just use MMCs as all the winding work is already done 
for you --- and they are dirt cheap.


Dr. Resonance

Resonance Research Corp.
www.resonanceresearch.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
To: <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 20, 2007 10:58 PM
Subject: RE: troubleshooting tesla coil, continued (fwd)



---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 22:31:16 -0400
From: Scott Bogard <teslas-intern@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: troubleshooting tesla coil, continued (fwd)


Polyethylenes voltage breakdown rating is only 450V per mill, which means
your 3 layers of 4 mil is only good for 5400V, absolutely 100% not enough
plastic.  If it were me, I would go with no less than 17 layers, that will
give you a decent buffer for a temporary cap.  Going for 7nf use a 2 foot
by 2 foot conductive plate, and go with about 4 plates, that will put you
just under 7nf (6.5-losses).  Remember to put it under mineral oil, or it
will be a very short lived cap.  Another thing you may wish to try is
bottle caps, big, messy, lossy, fragile, but the easiest cap to build and
you probably already have everything you need (ultra cheap), a few pickle
jars should do you nicely (if they do not, add more, and if that doesn't
help, there is a problem with your circuit, which should not be true as
you are getting 2-in sparks).  Then start to work on your spark gap, good
luck there.  I hope this helps. Scott Bogard.

> Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 20:05:54 -0600
> From: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: troubleshooting tesla coil, continued (fwd)
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Date: Thu, 20 Sep 2007 21:42:27 -0400
> From: Marko Ruban <Marko@xxxxxxxx>
> To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: Re: troubleshooting tesla coil, continued (fwd)
>
> I've upgraded my design with 1/4" copper tubing primary and a toroid
> topload (3"x12") made from aluminum air duct.  I can now pull about 2"
> sparks off the topload.  I'll work on new spark gap next, current
> (temporary) one seems to stop working properly after a minute or so.
>
> I also decided to give polyethylene a try for capacitor, but it didn't
> work.  Burned a hole right away (3 layers of 4mil), think I'll need more
> or better quality PE.  When I was putting the Mylar cap back together, I
> noticed soot on the margins from arcing.  Looks like I'll need more than
> an inch margin for my next cap.
>
>
> Tesla list wrote:
> > ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> > Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 22:06:17 -0700
> > From: Barton B. Anderson <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> > To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> > Subject: Re: troubleshooting tesla coil, continued (fwd)
> >
> > Hi Marko,
> >
> > Yes, now that you identified 4 pairs of copper sheets and the 1"
> > clearance using Mylar, 7nF is just about right! And yes, Mylar has a
> > dielectric constant value of 3.2 and breakdown at 7,500 V/mil. But there
> > is a problem here that you have identified in this particular post. The
> > problem is Mylar (aren't you sick of people bringing up bad news?).
> > Sorry, it's just that it sticks out like a sore thumb. You accounted for
> > the volts/mil and dielectric constant, but you didn't account for how
> > dielectrics behave with alternating currents such as RF (Tesla Coil
> > frequencies).
> >
> > Dielectrics have what is termed a "dissipation factor" identifying
> > losses (always in the form of heat) when the dielectric is operated in
> > an alternating current. The higher the frequency, the more losses that
> > are generated. Some dielectrics have a high dissipation factor and
> > others a low dissipation factor. What is desired for high frequency is a
> > low dissipation factor. Mylar unfortunately has a high dissipation
> > factor and makes them unsuitable for Tesla Coil tank caps. It's always
> > best to go with a known dielectric which has a low dissipation factor
> > such as polypropylene, polystyrene, polyethylene, etc.. just as the cap
> > manufacturers themselves go with. Even with our MMC's, we account for
> > the dissipation factor (tangent loss) as specified by the cap 
> > manufacturers.
> >
> > There are a lot of things you'll be working on, but I just wanted to
> > point out that Mylar is not a great choice for tank caps (even if the
> > volts/mil is high and dielectric is in the medium range). Your cap being
> > a plate cap would likely do better than a rolled mylar cap simply due to
> > the thermal dissipation of the plates, so you may want to give it a go
> > anyway and see how it reacts. Of course, if breakdown occurs (even a pin
> > hole punch through), that will end the caps use. I personally used oil
> > in my plate cap, mainly for the self healing ability.
> >
> > If you are ever curious as to what constitutes a good dielectric or not,
> > copper vs. steel in the primary, etc.., just do a search at
> > www.pupman.com of the list archives. Cap dielectrics are one of those
> > items where there is a lot of information available.
> >
> > Take care,
> > Bart
> >
> >
> > Tesla list wrote:
> >
> >
> >> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> >> Date: Sun, 16 Sep 2007 16:43:56 -0400
> >> From: Marko Ruban <Marko@xxxxxxxx>
> >> To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >> Subject: Re: troubleshooting tesla coil, continued (fwd)
> >>
> >> As I mentioned a bit earlier, I made an error in units, my cap was an
> >> estimated 7nF (not pF).  I finally got the multimeter, and that value 
> >> was
> >> confirmed since initial post.
> >>
> >> Capacitor is constructed with 4 pairs of 10mil copper sheets (6" x 8")
> >> separated by 10mil Mylar sheets with 1" margin on the sides.  I picked
> >> Mylar because it has a high dielectric value and high breakdown 
> >> voltage.
> >> 10mil sheet is rated at 70kV.
> >>
> >>
> >> Tesla list wrote:
> >>
> >> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> >> Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2007 18:17:24 -0700
> >> From: Barton B. Anderson <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >> To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >> Subject: Re: troubleshooting tesla coil, continued (fwd)
> >>
> >> Hi Marko,
> >>
> >> Your inserting 0.007uF into Javatc so the frequency's do match as they
> >> should at that capacitance. However, your "saying" 7pF and that is way
> >> off from both Javatc and what the plate cap really is. Judging by your
> >> plate cap configuration, it is about 0.7nF (not 7nF) if your using 
> >> glass
> >> as an insulator. If air is your insulator, then it's down to 0.1nF.
> >>
> >> So you are way out of tune. The fix is the cap. For a plate cap using
> >> glass with about 0.2" spacing, you would need a plate surface area of
> >> 900 square inches (30" x 30").
> >>
> >>
> >> If your going to use a plate cap, you might want to consider Castor oil
> >> which has a high dielectric of 5. About 15 plates (8" x 11") with a 
> >> 0.2"
> >> spacing between plates would yield near 7nF (which is 0.007uF). Plate
> >> caps are fun to play with, but when you start building to a capacitance
> >> such as this, it can get bulky and messy. I of course recommend an MMC
> >> for performance.
> >>
> >> Take care,
> >> Bart
> >>
> >> Tesla list wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> >> Date: Thu, 13 Sep 2007 19:19:45 -0400
> >> From: Marko Ruban <Marko@xxxxxxxx>
> >> To: Tesla list <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
> >> Subject: troubleshooting tesla coil, continued
> >>
> >> Hello guys, I'm back from a long summer vacation.  As per previous
> >> suggestions I have acquired an old NST transformer (12kV, 60Hz, 60mA
> >> output).  And the spark gap does run now with capacitor/primary in
> >> circuit.  However, there's no visible effect on the topload, still.
> >> Could it be that badly un-tuned?
> >>
> >> Please see the photo of my simple setup and make any suggestions...
> >> http://marko.dppl.com/TC_setup.jpg
> >>
> >> The flat rectangular thing in front, is the capacitor, which should be
> >> about 7pF.  Can't make a more specific measurement since my new
> >> multimeter is still in the mail.  Spark gap is on top of the NST, and
> >> consists of two screws facing each other (about 0.2" adjustable
> >> spacing).  Wire running in the back to the right is the ground.
> >>
> >> Also, here's a dump of JavaTC for my coil...
> >> http://marko.dppl.com/coil.txt
> >>
> >> Thanks in advance for any assistance.
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
>
>

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