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Re: [TCML] Primary coil spacers for Lexan ( polycarbonate ) circle 17.75" x 0.25" inch thick



I used LEXAN on my second "real" coil, and during a long run, found it burns quite well. Since I had an audience, I kept it running through the flames.

      From: twoten <teslafirma@xxxxxxxxx>
 To: tesla@xxxxxxxxxx 
 Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2015 10:06 PM
 Subject: Re: [TCML] Primary coil spacers for Lexan ( polycarbonate ) circle 17.75" x 0.25" inch thick
   
I used thick lexan strips, drilled a row of oversized holes up one side
by a third, then sliced it on the table saw into 2 pieces. These I
drilled and tapped and now hold together with plastic bolts. They really
hold well.


On 15-02-11 09:54 PM, deano wrote:
> On Wed, 11 Feb 2015 17:55:40 -0600
> Timothy Gilmore <tdg8934@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>> I purchased this base for my primary base.
>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tesla-Coil-Lexan-Circle-Base-Primary-Secondary-/361162740274?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5416fa1232
>>
>> However all I got was just the Lexan circle base (not the primary coil
>> spacers nor standoffs) as the ad stated. Pictures are great but I
>> need to look closer next time. Anyway I need to buy or make spacers
>> for the primary on this see through "bullet proof" base. I don't want
>> to use wood as it would take away from the clear look of it. Does
>> anyone know of any place that I can get these from? I don't really
>> have any tools other than a drill so I would rather buy "reasonably"
>> what would work.
>>
>> Thanks! - Tim
> Hi Tim
>
> I am sure some folks will suggest going to the grocery store or
> Wal-Mart and pick up a HDPE or PP cutting board and cut that into
> strips. Of course if you do not have a saw that could be a problem.
> But, Internet to the rescue:
> http://kiwi-breaching-products.myshopify.com/products/kbp-hdpe-strips-12-x-1-x-1-2
> Just get four of those, drill holes (spaced and sized appropriately of
> course) near to one edge (but not so close that they break through when
> you drill them) and cut away the bit of the edge near the hole so that
> you end up with a notch that is only slightly narrower than the hole.
> Slightly narrower so that is so the primary coil tubing will "snap" into
> place when you push it down and then stays put. Such cuts can be made
> with only a hot knife. Or a hacksaw blade (cheap, and you do not even
> need the saw).
>
> The white HDPE may still detract from the "clear look of it" a bit, but
> HDPE and PP have excellent electrical properties, not so much wood.
> Wood tends to absorb and hold moisture, and is composed mostly of
> carbon which is a good conductor, so wood would have to be kiln dried
> and boiled in paraffin (or prepared similarly) to hold up in a high
> voltage insulating application.
>
> It may be possible to find pre-cut strips of clear acrylic or
> polycarbonate. Acrylic is a bit tricky to work with. Polycarbonate is
> not as tricky, but both materials are hard so the "snap" trick won't
> work. You would have to tie down the copper tubing with nylon wire
> ties or something, or split the strips and use half to clamp the tubing
> down in the other half. That could be difficult to do accurately
> without a table saw or the equivalent.
>
> later
> deano
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