Personally, I would look into fiberglass or plastic with heavy Chrome
plating. Easy to form and lite weight.
Generally, plating on ABS plastics ABS consists of the following steps:
*Conventional technology*
- Cleaning (optional)
- Water rinse
- Chromosulfuric etch
- Drag out rinse
- Water rinse
- Hexavalent chrome reduction
- Water rinse
- HCl predip
- Pd/Sn activation
- Water rinse
- Acceleration
- Water rinse
- Electroless Nickel
- Water rinse
- Cu or Ni strike
- Water rinse
- Acid Cu plating
*New technology*
- Cleaning (optional)
- Water rinse
- Chromosulfuric etch
- Drag out rinse
- Water rinse
- Hexavalent chrome reduction
- Water rinse
- HCl predip
- Pd/Sn activation
- Water rinse
- Sn/Cu exchange
- Water rinse
- ( Skip )
- ( Skip )
- ( Skip )
- ( Skip )
- Acid Cu plating
*adv.*
*"Standards and Guidelines for Electroplated Plastics"*
by *American Society for Electroplated Plastics*
from Abe Books
<https://affiliates.abebooks.com/c/65481/77416/2029?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.abebooks.com%2Fservlet%2FSearchResults%3Fsts%3Dt%26tn%3DStandards%2B%2526%2BGuidelines%2Bfor%2BElectroplated%2BPlastics>
or
info on Amazon
<https://www.amazon.com/Standards-Guidelines-Electroplated-Plastics-American/dp/0138423024/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1538355199&sr=8-1&keywords=0138423024&linkCode=ll1&tag=finishingcominc&linkId=75b1e0996c57b9983b4eb90c8718f9f9>
or
see our Review <https://www.finishing.com/books/ASEP.shtml>
*adv.*
*Electroless Plating*
by *Mallory & Hajdu*
from Abe Books
<https://affiliates.abebooks.com/c/65481/77416/2029?u=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.abebooks.com%2Fservlet%2FSearchResults%3Fisbn%3D0815512775%26sts%3Dt>
or
Amazon
<https://www.amazon.com/Electroless-Plating-Glenn-Mallory/dp/0815512775/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1539548638&sr=8-1&keywords=0815512775&linkCode=ll1&tag=finishingcominc&linkId=5f595969f65bb20e7cc805f329260b21>
Further electrolytic plating depending on requirements.
Mentioned above new technology is just released 2 years ago with saving a
lot of money in getting rid of the most troublesome EN step; and in most
cases, it reduces rejects down to less than 1%.
There are a lot of supplier houses that can offer you the whole
conventional process, but new technology belongs to Atotech.
Best Regards
Doug
On Tue, Jan 21, 2020 at 1:19 PM jimlux <jimlux@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> On 1/21/20 9:00 AM, Antonio Queiroz wrote:
> > Em 19/01/2020 19:53, Jake Bissen via Tesla escreveu:
> >> Hello Tesla Board,
> >> My name is Jake Bissen I do a show in Milwaukee utilizing Tesla coils
> >> along side Sam Catania who owns 4 solid state coils.
> >> I'm unique and reckless in that my Faraday suit is a suit of medieval
> >> plate armor (like a jousting knight). Right off the bat I do not
> >> recommend this to ANYONE, Don't try it at home. I have only been
> <snip>
> >> Thank you,Jake Bissen
> >
> > Aluminum really has problems with the highly insulating surface oxide
> > layer. Even if screws are used to fix connection wires after removing
> > most of the oxidation the connections tend to become loose because
> > aluminum flows under pressure. Pressure washers must be used. Just
> > flexible wires fixed with tape will make poor connections. Connections
> > using plugs or something allowing quick connection and firm contact
> > would be better, if you want to save the time that connections with
> > screws would take.
> >
> > You could have made an armor suit made of brass, for example, that is
> > not much more difficult to work than aluminum and far easier than steel.
> > No problems with connections with brass, and a "golden suit" would look
> > more impressive.
> >
> > Antonio Carlos M. de Queiroz
> >
> >
>
> I was thinking about that - brass (or copper) would work, but would
> potentially be a lot heavier. Steel is actually pretty good, but heavy,
> and it's easy to make "good enough" contacts, but you'd have the rusting
> problem, and Jake can't just throw his armor at his squire and say "have
> it all polished up by tomorrow". Stainless steel would work, but is
> also heavy.
>
> The commercial shark suits that folks use as shielding chain mail are
> stainless steel.
>
> This is an interesting challenge - aluminum is nice - easy to form,
> always clean, light weight. I suspect that if you do make wire
> connections with, say, screws, eventually they'll get loose as Antonio
> describes. And then you might not get directly shocked, but you might
> get burned by the sparks jumping the gap, and that would probably be
> more painful than the RF spark (which are notorious for doing damage but
> not hurting a lot - see the archives)
>
> Some sort of compression bonding technique that can't loosen is going to
> be the key - I'm thinking that some sort of rivet that swages the wire
> into the aluminum with some residual tension to keep it from loosening.
> Maybe the choices of aluminum alloy might help.
>
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>
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