Re: THERABAND VDG BELTS?????????/ (fwd)

["High Voltage list" <hvlist@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: Steven Roys <sroys@xxxxxxxxxx>



---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Thu, 24 May 2007 22:21:24 -0600
From: Gomez Addams <gomezaddams@xxxxxxxxx>
To: High Voltage list <hvlist@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: THERABAND VDG BELTS?????????/ (fwd)


On May 23, 2007, at 7:53 PM, High Voltage list wrote:

> Original poster: Steven Roys <sroys@xxxxxxxxxx>
>
>
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> Date: Wed, 23 May 2007 12:37:56 -0500
> From: Steve Studer <reddykguy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
> To: High Voltage list <hvlist@xxxxxxxxxx>
> Subject: RE: THERABAND VDG BELTS?????????/ (fwd)
>
>
> Ed,
> Theraband has worked well for me. To cut it I rolled it up as tight  
> as I could get it and then sliced off the width I wanted with a new  
> utility knife blade.  I have not found a good glue to join the ends  
> together with.  Rubber cement works but it leaves wrinkles in the  
> joint.

There are some tricks to "gluing" natural latex. (which is what  
Therabands are made from)

Use Bestest White Rubber Cement, available at art supply stores.   
Some other brands of rubber cement are not made from latex, and will  
not work.  While you're at the art supply store, get some "Bestine  
Thinner" (because you will want to thin the cement with of thinner to  
glue of anywhere from 2:1 to 4:1) and an "ink brayer" with a 1" wide  
hard nylon roller.

For a belt on a VDG, you might get better luck if you make your seam  
diagonal rather than straight across the belt.

Now, the right way to glue latex is actually to make a solvent weld.   
You do this by slightly dissolving the two surfaces, and using a glue  
that is itself made from latex dissolved in a solvent.

First, prep the surfaces to be glued by cleaning thoroughly with 90%  
isopropyl alcohol, drying, then rubbing with the thinner.  This will  
make the latex curl like mad.  To avoid that, you can put several  
layers of masking tape on the back side before starting.  You can  
peel them off later after the seam has cured.

After prepping both surfaces to be glued, paint the thinnest layer  
possible thinned-out cement onto each surface.  Do not join.  Let  
them sit and dry for at least three minutes or even longer - you want  
the smell of the heptane solvent (did I mention you should be doing  
this in a well-ventilated space?  NO SMOKING!) to have nearly  
disappeared before you join them.

Join the pieces carefully - once they touch, they aren't coming apart  
without being wrecked!  If bubbles form, simply pop them with a  
straight pin or sewing needle.  Now roll the joint hard several times  
with your roller.

Do not use for at least 24 hours.

  - Gomez

PS: the reason black doesn't work is that it is full of carbon black,  
which makes it slightly conductive!

.................................
I'm so good I don't have to brag.