Re: Coil Form Sealing? (fwd)
The cracking may be something that I experienced once. It was from Behr
Super Gloss Build 50. It was because the coil was coated way too thickly
and the temperature in the garage got to about -5 degrees F.
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 21 Apr 1998 18:02:13 -0500
From: Chuck Curran <ccurran-at-execpc-dot-com>
To: Tesla List <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Subject: Re: Coil Form Sealing?
I'm puzzled by the cracking comment too. It probably depends on the
particular brand of polyurethane, but I've had excellent results from the
good old "Behr Super Build 50" product. This last February I ran a test of
sorts on the a sample of the 22.75" diameter HDPE form I will be using as my
#5 coil form. I coated it with the Behr Super build 50 and let it dry for 3
days. The cylinder had the top and bottom cut off so when I stepped on it
to deform it, it bent in a very severe manner. The polyurethane product
did not suffer at all--absolutely no cracks or separation was found from the
form itself. This was then repeated about 10 days later, again with good
results. I did wipe down the form with Xylene to make sure it was clean
prior to coating it, if that's of any interest. My coil form from 2 years
ago still looks brand new with the same product. I've had good luck,
admittedly with limited tests. Hope this provides some food for thought!
(When I used my circular saw to section the form for recycling, the poly
coating did fail.)
From: Tesla List <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: 'Tesla List' <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Date: Tuesday, April 21, 1998 1:35 AM
Subject: Coil Form Sealing?
>From: Alfred A. Skrocki [SMTP:alfred.skrocki-at-cybernetworking-dot-com]
>Sent: Monday, April 20, 1998 6:39 AM
>To: Tesla List
>Subject: Re: Coil Form Sealing?
>On Saturday, April 18, 1998 11:26 PM D.C. Cox
>> Avoid the polyurethane -- will crack with time and becomes unsightly.
>I differ on this. I have several coils that I wound over 20 years aga and
>coated with polyurethane and they are as good and as nice looking as the
>day they were dried! The alternatives you mentioned; G.E. Glyptal and
>Dolph's AC-43 air dry varnish, are needlessly expensive when compared to
>either polyethylene, Shellac or Varnish, all of which work quite well.
>BTW there may be differences in polyurethane finishes, I used Zar brand,
>clear glossy, oil based.
> \\ ~ ~ //
> ( -at- -at- )
> Alfred A. Skrocki
> Visit my Do-It-Yourself Aquarium WEB page at;
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