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Re: Shellac Qs + Re: PVC Drying



Absolutely no reason that you shouldn't use polyurethane, in fact that's
probably what most people use. Others use two part resin. If you use PU, go
for a standard clear varnish, personally  I use a cheap gloss interior
grade. Shellac is ok, but it needs dissolving in alcohol, and it takes a
long time. Shellac is also rather brittle when dry and it can crack, and it
doesn't generally last as long.
As to drying, I have built two coils with PVC formers, one dried with a heat
gun and one without, absolutely no difference. Just a thought for others,
but is it possible that if the former is stored for a while in a modern
dwelling (nowadays interior humidities are very low), then the PVC dries out
enough?

----- Original Message -----
From: Tesla list <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
To: <tesla-at-pupman-dot-com>
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 11:33 PM
Subject: Shellac Qs + Re: PVC Drying


> Original poster: "Alex Madsen" <alexmadsen-at-netzero-dot-net>
>
> Shellac Qs: All the references to selling pvc or fixing coil windings say
to
> use shellac. Is there a reason for this or can I use polyurethane?  I am
> concerned  about interference with coil operation or water
permeability(fire
> to!).
>
> PVC drying: This is what the plans from Information Unlimited
> (www.amazing1-dot-com) have to say on the pvc drying.
> They deal with a lot of high voltage stuff and seem to know what they are
> talking about but they are rather expensive.
>
> "Special Note: For maximum performance it is suggested to thoroughly clean
> the pvc tube inside and out and allow to dry in a dehumidified room." (I
> think a heat gun will do the trick)"several coats of orange shellac should
> be applied and allowed to completely dry before proceeding."
>
> That is what U.I. has to say about that!
>
>
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