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Simple Rotor balance approach



Original poster: "Jim Mora" <jmora@xxxxxxxxxxx>

Hi All,

I just wanted to mention how I balanced my 1/8? x 8 electrodes on my 12? g10 x 1/2? with ½? center hole. I have balanced motorcycle laced wheels before and the principal seems the same to me. I had about a 5? rod of ½? brass all thread laying around. Humm, a couple of high quality bearings might be just the ticket. The tolerance was darn close to the center hole, so I cinched a nut on the all thread to either side of the rotor on the outside of the bearings.

There were a couple of automobile axle stands in the garage that proved to be perfect bearing stands. The stands were close enough to set the bearings on the inside edge of them. The rotor moved very freely. I drilled the holes on the outside of the rotor using a 3/8? drill in the center between the brass W holders. Perfecto.

Concerned that the nuts or the all thread might be a factor, I rotated them around and re-cinched and the rotor stayed balanced. Clearly the bearings should be as close to the inside edge of the stands as possible and maybe shorten the axle to prevent extraneous balance influence.

Works for me.

This has all been good practice before I attempt the 18? ½? tungsten rotor. I?m leaning to the direct press fit with set screws of largish thread yet smallish diameter directly and perpendicular into the G10. The angular momentum should tend to force them to stay put. Forget the lock tight and temperature issues. Thanks for all the experienced input on this.

Jim Mora