Re: Pre-flight check......

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: "Barton B. Anderson" <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Hi Glen,

The ground rod pounding is not an absolute for a smallish coil. For 
larger coils, I certainly recommend something else then a counter 
poise. As far as pounding through the garage itself, well, I did it, 
but that is not the norm. Usually coilers will pound their ground 
rods near the edge of the garage or wherever. The only reason I 
drilled through the garage and pounded in a ground rod was for 
simplicity of RF ground directly under the coil. One day I realized 
that I would likely be coiling forever to one degree or another (I do 
get lazy like everyone else from time to time). The RF rod in the 
garage just made life a lot easier for me. No big deal either way.

Wood. It's simply easy to build whatever support fixture is needed. 
The problem is high voltage carbon tracks. So, use it as much as 
possible, but keep it away from direct high voltage. Your round 
wooden primary base if fine, just ensure the primary is not in 
contact with it (and widen the hole where the inner winding wire 
passes through the wooden base). I would recommend replacing the PVC 
runners with acrylic runners at some point. Acrylic runners can 
easily be attached to the existing base. The runners can also aid 
primary connection points by installing runners 2 or 3 inches high. 
Here is an example drawing of how I fashioned my last acrylic runners 
(I like to use 3/8" thick by 2" high runners).

http://www.classictesla.com/temp/Pristand.gif

You will notice the runner has slots (simply hacksaw the slots). I 
use these slots to provide "flex" to the runners. The idea is to 
"snap in" the primary tubing. With flex slots, you can keep the snap 
holes kind of tight and still get the runner in place. Without the 
slots, it helps to be precise on each hole (otherwise, some of the 
tubing will snap in and others will fit very loose). It's just one 
idea for you to consider. It usually takes a primary or two to get 
the hang of it.

High voltage applications require high voltage basics, meaning that 
everything you breath and touch can become conductive if the voltage 
is high enough. So, consider the voltage level and insulate 
accordingly. Carbon tracks can form on all kinds of materials, 
including the highly used G10 epoxy resin fiberglas. I've caused a 6" 
carbon track on G10. That was an eye opening experience for myself 
(before that experience, I had only tracked on wood).

Take care,
Bart

Tesla list wrote:

> Original poster: "Glen McGowan" <glen.mcgowan@xxxxxxxxx>
>
> Thanks for all the generous compliments.  I think everyone zeroed in 
> on the wood issue. I'm using two un-finished table tops that I 
> bought at Lowes. They are bare and uncoated. I had planned to build 
> a poly* platform for the Safety Gap but sorta wanted to finish it 
> fast so I "winged" it for the time being. I wanted to see if I could 
> build it first and, second, see if I could get it to hurl a few 
> acceptable streamers.
>
> Something that didn't cross my mind was the fact that the large 
> resistors on the Terry Filter might begin to heat up. Being that 
> they are made of ceramic and a high temp coating should have been a 
> clear hint. That said I think I'll keep a laser thermometer handy 
> and take readings here and there as I tune.
>
> I think I'll give the counterpoise a whirl this weekend.  I'm too 
> lazy to drive a ground rod. If all goes well I hope to be able to 
> send the coveted "First Light" e-mail to the list. It may be pretty 
> hard to type while giggling like a sissy but I think I'll manage.