RE: PIRANHA - New Top Load Configuration

["Tesla list" <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Original poster: Vardan <vardan01@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>

Hi Gary,

At 06:35 AM 10/16/2006, you wrote:
> Hi Terry:
>
> That's a very cool look!  The matching quad dragon ground points will be
> a nice accessory.

They are threaded and also act like bolts to hold down the top 
cover.  They act more like a strike rail that dedicated ground 
points.  But the top balls could probably be easily adjusted for any 
case.  BTW - Never tell an artist your going to stick their work into 
a milling machine and "work on it" =:O

> What parameter is "tuned" by sliding the balls in and out - C-top, or
> just the e-field geometry?

Probably both,  It would be cool to position their radius so they 
would be equal to a standard toroid of the same dimensions.  I don't 
think that is easy to "calculate".  Since it is not radially 
symmetrical E-Tesla can't do it...  I am sure after a little fiddling 
I will just lock them in place with pins.  Right now The diameter is 
3X the ball size as sort of a "standard".  Of course, one could use 
six or eight balls too...  Hopefully, the balls will not become hard 
to get like MMC caps and IGBTs :o))

I got mine already ordered from here:

http://www.krupps.com/Gazing-Balls/3-1-3

The shipping is super high, but they are still cheapest.  I think it 
is best to avoid the "painted" or color ones since the coating will 
probably burn up.  But some of them look really cool!!  I hope cobalt 
bits and reamers will drill through the super hard stainless 
steel!  I think Hopes make a nice polish for SS too if they get 
tarnished over time.  I think the SS can also be easily plated by a 
shop for other metals like brass or gold if one wants.  BTW - I have 
not "tested" the top load thing at all so it is "experimental" at 
this point.  But if it works, it will be a nice very easy way to make 
bigger "pretty" top loads for not too much money (I have already sold 
my toroid manufacturing stock :o)).  It does make very pretty ray 
trace pictures ;-))  So far, figuring out the ray trace graphics to 
help explain it all has been the hardest thing ;-))  It would be hard 
to explain with out a picture, but with one, it is trivial:

http://drsstc.com/~piranha/PIRANHA/PIRANHA-2/TopClose.png

It would be cool to make a water proof coil for the garden like 
this.  Pretty easy to do since all the electronics is enclosed and 
low (no) maintenance is required.  The electronics does not burn off 
much heat (~50W) so it could be totally sealed if the runs where not 
extremely long.  The fan would still blow across the IGBTs and 
resistors just to keep them near ambient.  The exposed secondary 
could be all coated with marine or some other water proof 
non-conductive varnish...  Probably would not work good in rain or 
snow ;-))  It is loud for the neighbors though.  The electronics are 
pretty "quiet" electrically and if you just put streamer to the air 
the RFI might not be too bad at all.  Complications of outdoor GFI 
wiring is left to the reader :o))

It is very odd not worrying at all about the electronics part of the 
coil.  The PIRANHA engine is just anther "part" like the power 
cord.  Just have to worry about shoving it in the box...  Having the 
primary beneath the top cover also removes a lot of the electrical 
hazard since the almost directly MOT driven primary is more than 
lethal!!  Also, the primary does not have to be "pretty" since nobody 
sees it, so it is much easier to make ;-)  Probably just plop it on 
under the cover with epoxy.  The peak voltage is ~8kV so no big 
deal...  Lot and lots of new ideas now *:-))

> Can't wait to see what innovations you have in store for the power cord
> ;-)

Wireless energy transmission of course >:O)))  I was thinking if I 
were going to go for the full medieval gothic thing the cord could be 
covered in hemp or something to make it look like an old rope.  But I 
pulled back on that since the top load was not medieval at all and 
the hand made iron stuff was pretty pricey.  The dragons can be 
changed out easily with brass balls from McMaster if the gothic thing 
does not fit the situation.  I got a big dragon (nice sharp wings and 
head) for the very top that could be elevated as a top breakout 
though.  Modern Lead Free pewter is just bulk lead free solder ingot 
from all I can tell, but I don't think it will melt or anything.  I 
am not sure where to put the ground stud yet...  I want to avoid the 
outside oak box so that could be an independent part that could be 
removed for service.   Just four sticks could be used in place of the 
box to run the coil "open" for showing off or fiddling.  Also not 
sure what to make the top plate of the box out of yet.  Lexan, G-10, 
wood, etc...  Wood is cheap, but probably have to go with much more 
expensive plastics to contain the primary voltage for safety (NOT 
that this coil is "safe" by any means!!)

Cheers,

        Terry



> Regards, Gary Lau
> MA, USA
>
> > 3/8 Brass tubing will interconnect the balls and provide
> > support.  The main tubes on the "X" will be 3/8 inch and the balls
> > will have 3/8 inch ID tubing inserted into them.  Thus, the balls
> > will ba able to slide in and out in a telescoping fashion.  The far
> > end of the tube inside the ball will be epoxied in place.  It is
> > fairly critical to get the tube aligned properly.  One could tune the
> > coil by sliding the balls in and out.