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Re: [TCML] MMC pics



Hi Nicholas,

Go to Radioshack and buy a solder sucker. Not the little goofy rubber thing, but the type that is in cylinder form. Heat the solder then hold the sucker tip next to the leads and suck up the solder. Once enough solder is off the leads, you can then heat it again and bend the leads up and away. Both of the resistors and caps won't get hot enough to hurt them, but when it comes to soldering in general, you want to be on the leads only long enough to solder and desolder. When heating the leads, first put a dab of solder on the iron tip. Don't just put the tip on the leads and wait for things to heat up. Wipe the tip off on a wet sponge between soldering and desoldering. Turn the iron off between long periods of no soldering, otherwise your tip will burn up.

I wouldn't use wood. Your just heading down another road of troubles if you do. Target is a great place to buy cutting boards. Their 1/2" thick. You want the white nylon type which is a simple no frills board. The last time I bought these boards from Target (about a month ago), they sold a package of 3 boards for just under $10. The largest board was about 14" x 17.5" which is a nice large size. Then you can just easily drill small holes for the caps in one string. It's also handy for mounting brass screws to the end leads for wire connections.

The solder type is not important. One thing people should do after soldering is to clean the solder side with soap and water. The solders core flux is corrosive.

Take care,
Bart


Nicholas J. Goble wrote:
Bart,

Yeah that does suck, but I'd rather take advice from a veteran than risk destroying the MMC. How do I unsolder the leads? Also, with all this soldering and unsoldering, am I damaging the caps and resistors? I know that resistors are pretty sensitive to heat, but what about caps? I don't want to destroy anything.

I also don't want to buy another perf board. I'm running low on funds. Radio shack didn't have anyones that were long enough for me anyways. I have some scrap wood lying around and some spray acrylic polyurethane sealer. Could I seal the wood and mount the caps on that? I've heard that wood is lossy, so that's why I didn't use it in the first place. If wood doesn't work, do you have any suggestions as to where I could locally buy a long perf board (Indianapolis)? I don't want to order one online because 1) Low Funds and 2) I don't like waiting.

By the way, does it matter what kind of solder I use? I used some lead based PC resin core solder. I know that's a lot of questions, but I feel like I'm kind of stumbling here. Thanks for your guidance.

Nicholas Goble



On 7/11/08 8:51 PM, "bartb" <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Nicholas,

Big problems. The solder side series string is being staggered in sections of 3 on a square perf board. Your leads are far too close together between "most" sections. If you fire it up like this, your going to get arcing between the sections. Think of this: If you have
12
caps in series and say 12kV across the cap bank, then there will be
3kV
across each 3 cap section in your circuit. Another 3kV on the next section, etc. The area with the bottom red and green circles will have 6kV across those 2 very near leads. However, the middle caps leads of those 2 sections are even closer. That's probably the main arcing spot.

You need to keep some distance. This square board isn't going to help you much. You would be better off with a caps side by side in a single run. Long perf board versus a square one.

I know it sucks to hear that after you've soldered all the leads, but
it
is what it is.

Take care,
Bart
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