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Re: broken secondary



Original poster: "Harold Weiss" <hweiss@xxxxxxxxxx>

I'll agree with Antonio. Even on my 15" 14 ga secondary, I did lap joints and used a lot of solder to keep things smooth over the joint. After soldering, I use 400 grit sandpaper to smooth any rough edge left. For insulation, I used corona dope over the wire. I never saw any racing sparks come from any of the joints when I was tunning it. The paper V method also works well. I have also used a thin mica sheet for the paper on a variac tap connection repair. Sheet mica can be salvaged from some dead NSTs. You will have to split the sheet down to a useable thickness.

Just make sure that you have bare copper surfaces before soldering. Keep the soldering tip clean and tinned.

David E Weiss

Original poster: "Antonio Carlos M. de Queiroz" <acmdq@xxxxxxxxxx>

Tesla list wrote:

Original poster: "Steven Steele" <sbsteele@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
When winding the secondary, what do you do in the event that your secondary
breaks?
do you solder it then glyptol or varnish or enamel the solder point real
well and just keep going? What if you cover the solder point with clay? Or
do you stick the wires inside the PVC through holes then solder them inside?
Or musat I start over, because I don't got much time?

This is not a critical problem at all. If the wire is thick enough, file
the ends at an angle and solder the ends carefully. Don't remove the
insulation, to keep the solder just at the joint. If the wire is too
thin, remove about 3 mm of insulation at the ends, and solder with
a small overlap, avoiding exposed points. Leave the overlap with the
wires one above the other, to avoid a gap in the winding. With several coats of varnish over the finished coil, there is no leakage. I have made secondary coils with wire salvaged from relay coils, with several joints, in this way.


Antonio Carlos M. de Queiroz