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Re: [TCML] MMC pics



Hi Nicholas,
You must use rosin core solder for electrical. Acid core will eat the wires or leads no matter how well you clean them. I still like 60/40 lead solder. The lead free ones require hotter temps to melt and thus more risk of component damage. Unsoldering for a cap is not too critical, if you have a surplus place, you can get some small locking hemostats, these have nice tips and are serrated. You can clamp them on the cap leads and they will act as heat sinks to help block the heat from getting back into the components.

Personally, I use solder wick for removal of solder and really do not like solder suckers but each to their own on this.
Whatever you feel comfortable with.

Frank

At 11:03 PM 7/11/2008 -0500, you wrote:

Bart,

Yeah that does suck, but I'd rather take advice from a veteran than
risk destroying the MMC.  How do I unsolder the leads?  Also, with all
this soldering and unsoldering, am I damaging the caps and resistors?
I know that resistors are pretty sensitive to heat, but what about
caps?  I don't want to destroy anything.

I also don't want to buy another perf board.  I'm running low on funds.
 Radio shack didn't have anyones that were long enough for me anyways.
I have some scrap wood lying around and some spray acrylic polyurethane
sealer.  Could I seal the wood and mount the caps on that?  I've heard
that wood is lossy, so that's why I didn't use it in the first place.
If wood doesn't work, do you have any suggestions as to where I could
locally buy a long perf board (Indianapolis)?  I don't want to order
one online because 1) Low Funds and 2) I don't like waiting.

By the way, does it matter what kind of solder I use?  I used some lead
based PC resin core solder.

I know that's a lot of questions, but I feel like I'm kind of stumbling
here.  Thanks for your guidance.

Nicholas Goble



On 7/11/08 8:51 PM, "bartb" <bartb@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

> Nicholas,
>
> Big problems. The solder side series string is being staggered in
> sections of 3 on a square perf board. Your leads are far too close
> together between "most" sections. If you fire it up like this, your
> going to get arcing between the sections. Think of this: If you have
12
> caps in series and say 12kV across the cap bank, then there will be
3kV
> across each 3 cap section in your circuit. Another 3kV on the next
> section, etc. The area with the bottom red and green circles will have
> 6kV across those 2 very near leads. However, the middle caps leads of
> those 2 sections are even closer. That's probably the main arcing spot.
>
> You need to keep some distance. This square board isn't going to help
> you much. You would be better off with a caps side by side in a single
> run. Long perf board versus a square one.
>
> I know it sucks to hear that after you've soldered all the leads, but
it
> is what it is.
>
> Take care,
> Bart
> _______________________________________________
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> Tesla@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> http://www.pupman.com/mailman/listinfo/tesla
>


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