Chris,
Nice to see the videos of the coil running. My guess is that the trigger pulse is too narrow on the EVR board, so the current is not flowing for a full 60 Hz AC cycle, and this is shortening the spark length at the slow rates, and causing more branching. Another possibility is that the RF from the coil is interfering with the triggering and shortening the trigger pulse that way
In my staccato board design, the trigger pulse wasextra wide so there was no chance that the coil would not run for a full AC half cycle when it triggered. However this is what made it impossible to get 60 pulses per second without the bypass switch.
Regarding the EVR burst mode, it's an interesting effect . I had never seen it in operation before. I think it would be most interesting if the burst mode had more time between the quick bursts, so you could hear the quick bursts separately, then there'd be a longer time gap between those bursts of course to give the overall effect.
Regarding the current draw, I wonder if the pulsesare fooling the meter and giving incorrect readings?I'd expect more current change between the variouspulse rates. I think the current should be much lowerat the low pulse rates.
The above are all just thoughts and suggestions, you'll be able to determine what's happening for sure when you look on the scope, etc.
Great work overall !
John
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Reeland <chrisreeland@xxxxxxxxx>
To: Tesla Coil Mailing List <tesla@xxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Mon, Oct 21, 2019 10:00 am
Subject: Re: [TCML] Eastern Voltage Research VTTC Staccato Controller - puzzled on "burst" output
Hi all and Steve.
I have run both interrupters one after another, to make a quick comparison.
I shot video on each one separately. Did the "breadboard" one first, then
the EVR.
I was a bit tired, when I shot the 2 vids, I think I misspoke a time or
two, but the results are there. Just did one take for each. This is with
the new 1 mica cap and 1 turn less, the now 12 turn primary that I
mentioned in the other thread.
If I had to do this again, putting the EVR, in an enclosure, knowing now
how the "burst" is setup and the "bypass", I would use a 4 position rotary
switch instead. But the individual switches work, so I am leaving good
enough alone, the holes are drilled...
So far it seems, that there is always going to be be some spark length loss
and stability on the lowest rate on the EVR. I have tried several tuning
settings, to see if I could improve it. Can not at all.
So for Steve (White), it seems ( if your 1 pulse is working ok and
identical to mine) that this will limit you some. This seems confirmed to
me. You have already mentioned some things, and to me, I see some
similarities. But you still have more in your 833A somewhere...
Also I show the "burst" mode working. Hopefully you can fix your easily
eventually.
I have good scope pictures of the EVR, that I have already. I still need to
take some of the repaired "breadboard" one. I did not take any, when I
scoped it. Have some fairly old ones taken before it got messed up, but
these are not good for referring to, since it is pretty much completely
rebuilt. So should be next weekend.
2 Videos:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/VomeE4tJ2Twqubxv7
Chris Reeland
Ladd Illinois USA
Sent from my LG V20
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